The
Hair
Playbook
The
Hair
Playbook
Hair care is having its moment; not quietly, but boldly, and with serious staying power. What was once a routine category is now an open space for innovation, storytelling, and sensorial luxury. Across the globe, the market is projected to climb from $96.9 billion in 2025 to $132.8 billion by 2035, with the real acceleration happening in the premium segment. Brands are raising the bar with sophisticated packaging, elevated textures, and formulas tailored to every hair type and routine. Hair fragrance is emerging as a new category, with sometimes purely perfumed, other times blended with shine enhancers or conditioning to offer consumers a final, luxurious step in their regimen. Scalp care is expanding fast, with treatments that borrow from skincare and focus on barrier repair, detox, and overall scalp wellness. Meanwhile, silicone-free systems are one of the fastest-growing movements, as consumers shift toward cleaner, lighter, and more natural-looking results without sacrificing performance. Youth and teen-focused lines are on the rise too, with

MARKET INSIGHTS & TREND-DRIVEN
FORMULAS FOR THE FUTURE
MARKET INSIGHTS & TREND-DRIVEN FORMULAS FOR THE FUTURE
By Jessica Dynda
vibrant packaging and intuitive products designed to evolve with age and build early brand loyalty. There’s also a noticeable rise in rice and jojoba-based formulations. These natural ingredients are used to boost strength, shine, and the overall look of healthy but now reimagined in modern formats. The message is clear: hair care is no longer background, it’s the headline. Clean, premium, multifunctional, and beautiful, this category is redefining itself with purpose and polish.

To meet this evolving market with intention and imagination, Koster Keunen is introducing six new hair care formulations that align directly with these global trends. Each formula has been developed as a flexible chassis: high-performance, on-trend, and thoughtfully designed to support further customization or go straight to market. Whether you’re inspired by the strengthening and shineboosting power of natural waxes, the luxurious touch of hair fragrance, or the clean performance of silicone-free systems, these bases give you a starting point. With the right developmental eye, each one becomes a launchpad for brand-owned innovation and exciting formulas that only you could bring to life. We’re here to provide the tools; the vision is yours. These are your blank slates.


For soft structure without stiffness, Feather Hold Styling Cream delivers a natural, flexible hold with just the right touch of control. Built on Kostol ApiFree (our PEG-free alternative to PEG-8 Beeswax) this formula offers a clean-label fixative with low shine and a movable, lived-in texture. Universally adaptable across hair types, it’s the perfect chassis for everything from sleek sophistication to effortless, undone styles. A true “any look, any day” base for brands ready to own their styling space
Sustainable Bayberry Wax and Beeswax set Deluxe Cream Pomade apart, offering a natural matte finish with a clean, non-greasy feel. Designed for a premium look and touch, it’s a sophisticated alternative to cocoa or shea butter in styling creams. This formula is tailor-made for prestige or natural-focused brand lines, giving you a styling base with eco-conscious credibility and functional performance.
This weightless, silicone-free blow dry lotion is all about performance without compromise. Blow Out Bae supports better wet and dry combability while adding heat protection and smooth detangling for a polished finish. It leaves no buildup, making it a dream for clean-label positioning. Whether you take it luxury, salon-exclusive, or prestige naturals, this chassis is a ready-made foundation for heat styling innovation.
Meet the multitasker that works across audiences and categories. Every Strand Hair Cream will smooth frizz, soften texture, and offer everyday manageability in a unisex format. Using SynKos M-1063 instead of microcrystalline wax, for global compliances is cost-effective yet highperforming—ideal for mass market or accessible prestige. It’s the kind of flexible base that can become a household staple under your brand’s signature.
Smooth, sleek, and in control, without silicones. Lay Me Down is a pumpable, mid-weight anhydrous formula crafted with Kester Wax K 70P to tame medium-to-coarse textured hair. It delivers lasting smoothness with a healthy-looking finish, perfectly aligned with the growing demand for siliconefree styling solutions. This formula is primed for brand-defining twists, from scent infusion to texture play.
Weightless, airy, and endlessly adaptable, Invisible Hair Essence is a featherlight conditioning mist that softens and detangles without residue. It’s the perfect foundation for trending hair fragrance mists, shine sprays, or treatment boosters. With all-day combability and sensory elegance, this formula opens the door to both daily care and beauty-enhancing rituals.
Formula: #2/25-592/10000/164-2
FEATURES
- Movable texture with non-sticky feel
- Provides medium flexible hold, and low shine
- For all hair types
Hair Care
Emulsion
Traditional Ingredients
Vegan
Ingredient Name | INCI Name | % |
Phase A | ||
Deionized Water | Aqua | 75.15 |
Disodium EDTA | Disodium EDTA | 0.05 |
Pemulan TR-1 | Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer | 0.1 |
Tealan 99 | Triethanolamine | 0.2 |
Optiphen | Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol | 1.0 |
Glycerin | Glycerin | 3.0 |
PVP K-90 | PVP | 4.5 |
Phase B | ||
Kester Wax CT | C32-36 Isoalkyl Stearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Stearyl Behenate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polysorbate 60 |
6.0 |
Permulgin D | Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20 | 6.0 |
Kostol Apifree | Behenyl Behenate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate |
4.0 |
Procedure
- Begin heating water to 80°C and add Phase A ingredients one by one, mixing each until uniform.
- Combine Phase B ingredients, and heat to 80–85°C until melted.
- Add Phase B to Phase A under agitation and mix at high speed until emulsion is uniform.
- Cool to 55-60°C and pour into containers.
Formula: #2/25-10013/358-1
FEATURES
- Moisturize and smooth frizzy hair
- Bright white, glossy lotion for all hair types
- Sulfate free with conditioning
Hair Care
Emulsion
Traditional Ingredients
Vegan
ITN | INCI Name | % |
Phase A | ||
Deionized Water | Aqua | 79.9 |
Jaguar C-17 | Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride | 0.4 |
Glycerin | Glycerin | 2.0 |
Gafquat 755NC | Polyquaternium-11 | 6.0 |
Optiphen | Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol | 1.0 |
Citric Acid | Citric Acid | 0.2 |
Phase B | ||
Kostol TMC-25 | Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Chloride | 6.0 |
Kester Wax K-24 | Lauryl Laurate | 4.5 |
Procedure
- Begin heating water to 80°C and add Phase A ingredients one by one, mixing each until uniform.
- Combine Phase B ingredients, and heat to 80–85°C until melted.
- Add Phase B to Phase A under agitation and mix at high speed until emulsion is uniform.
- Check pH and adjust to 4-5 as necessary.
- Cool to 45 or under and pour into containers.


Formula: #2/25-10092/358-4
FEATURES
- Instantly delivers lightweight curl definition and eliminates frizz
- 100% Natural and vegan formula
- Could also function as a moisturizing body/baby oil
Hair Care
Anhydrous
Clean/ Natural
Vegan
Ingredient Name | INCI Name | % |
Phase A | ||
Kester Wax K-70P | C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate | 22.0 |
Kester Wax K-24 | Lauryl Laurate | 5.0 |
Castor Oil | Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil | 37.0 |
Jeechem CTG | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | 23.8 |
Jojoba Oil | Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil | 12.2 |
Procedure
- Combine all ingredients
- Melt at 80-85°C and mix until uniform
- Continue to mix while cooling to room temperature.
- Pump into containers.
Formula: #2/25-414/421/188-8/
FEATURES
- Nourish hair all-day with flexible, movable hold
- All-natural formula
- Medium hold, unisex styler
Hair Care
Emulsion
Clean/ Natural
ITN | INCI Name | % |
Phase A | ||
Deionized Water | Aqua | 57.5 |
Glycerin | Glycerin | 5.0 |
Colloidal Kaolin | Kaolin | 3.0 |
Lincoserve WpH-LO | Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin | 1.0 |
Phase B | ||
Kostol Natural E | Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate | 4.5 |
Beeswax | Beeswax | 10.0 |
Bayberry Wax | Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Wax | 10.0 |
Jojoba Oil | Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil | 6.0 |
SMA Arrowroot Powder | Maranta Arundinacea Root Powder | 3.0 |
Procedure
- Begin heating water to 80°C and add Phase A ingredients one by one, mixing each until uniform.
- Combine Phase B ingredients, and heat to 80–85°C until melted.
- Add Phase B to Phase A under agitation and mix at high speed until emulsion is uniform.
- Cool to 45°C or under with mixing.
- Pour into containers.
Formula: #1/25-10013/10093/358-4
FEATURES
- Moisturize and smooth frizzy hair
- Bright white, glossy lotion for all hair types
- Sulfate free with conditioning
Hair Care
Emulsion
Traditional Ingredients
Vegan
Ingredient Name | INCI Name | % |
Phase A | ||
Deionized Water | Aqua | 83.2 |
Jaguar C-17 | Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride | 0.4 |
Zemea Propanediol | Propanediol | 2.0 |
Celquat SC-230 | Polyquaternium-10 | 0.2 |
Lincoserve WpH-LO | Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin | 1.0 |
Citric Acid | Citric Acid | 0.2 |
Phase B | ||
Kostol TMC-25 | Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Chloride | 6.0 |
Synkos M-1063 | Synthetic Wax | 5.0 |
Kester Wax K-24 | Lauryl Laurate | 2.0 |
Procedure
- Begin heating water to 80° C and add Phase A ingredients one by one, mixing each until uniform.
- Combine Phase B ingredients, and heat to 80 – 85° C until melted.
- Add Phase B to Phase A under agitation and mix at high speed until emulsion is uniform.
- Check pH and adjust to 4-5 as necessary.
- Cool to 45° C or under and pour into containers.
Formula: #1/25-483/358/120-1
FEATURES
- Feather weight conditioning mist for all day use
- Can be used pre-styling or as an all-day refresher
- Reduces wet and dry comb friction for supple and healthy hair
Hair Care
Emulsion
Traditional Ingredients
Vegan
ITN | INCI Name | % |
Phase A | ||
Deionized Water | Aqua | 87.8 |
Optiphen | Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol | 1.0 |
Kostol IBT | Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate | 5.0 |
Kester Wax K-24 | Lauryl Laurate | 4.0 |
Kester Wax K-48 | Cetyl Palmitate | 2.0 |
Fragrance “Breeze Fresh” | Parfum | 0.2 |
Procedure
- Heat water to 85°C.
- Add ingredients one at a time, with high mixing, except for fragrance.
- When batch is homogeneous, cool with medium / low mixing to 45°C or under.
- Add fragrance.
- Continue cooling to room temperature.
