The
DEVELOPMENT
OF SKINCARE

The
DEVELOPMENT
OF SKINCARE

THE DEVELOPMENT OF SKINCARE

MARKET INSIGHTS & TREND-DRIVEN
FORMULAS FOR THE FUTURE

MARKET INSIGHTS & TREND-DRIVEN FORMULAS FOR THE FUTURE

The future of skincare is not reactive; just like skin, it is resilient

As consumers move away from overcomplicated routines and algorithm-driven claims, formulation is returning to its physical foundation: structure, barrier integrity, and sensory intelligence.

Resilient skin begins with intelligent formulation architecture.

Koster Keunen’s expertise in wax engineering, lipid structuring, and multifunctional material design supports the development of high-performance systems that deliver:

  • Long-term moisturization

  • Barrier reinforcement

  • Climate-stable formats
  • Sensory refinement

No matter if the system is an emulsion, balm or stick, material science becomes the silent force behind elevated skincare performance.

Market Evolution: From Correction to Resilience

The skincare market is shifting from aggressive correction toward long-term resilience. Consumers are increasingly aware of inflammation, environmental stress, over-exfoliation, and barrier compromise. Rather than pursuing rapid transformation, they are seeking recovery-focused systems that reinforce the skin’s structural integrity over time. This shift places renewed emphasis on skin lipid support, balance, and sustained moisturization without over processing the skin.

Barrier-supportive systems such as anhydrous recovery balms and structured emulsions are gaining relevance because they deliver measurable comfort, skin barrier support and lasting hydration. Multifunctional materials that create breathable films, reinforce the lipid matrix, and maintain elegant sensory profiles are now included into all future formulations going to market.

Texture as Performance

Sensory expectations have elevated significantly. Today’s consumer equates texture with efficacy. A formula’s melt profile, cushion, slip, and absorption speed are interpreted as proof of performance. Rich no longer means greasy; protective no longer means heavy. The demand is for controlled payoff, refined glide, and non-whitening protection—even in traditionally dense formats such as sticks and balms.

Wax technologies, solid esters and modern plasticizers are enabling this new generation of textures. By fine-tuning crystallinity, melt curves, and film formation, formulators can design anhydrous sticks that glide effortlessly, emulsions that feel substantial yet absorb cleanly, and serum systems that layer seamlessly within routines. Sensory engineering has become inseparable from functional delivery.

Craftsmanship in Formulation

Amid rapid technological advancement, there is a renewed appreciation for formulation craftsmanship. Rather than chasing algorithm-driven novelty, brands are investing in material intelligence—understanding how ingredients work together to create durable performance and refined aesthetics.

In this environment, engineered lipid systems and wax-based architectures are not background components; they are the foundation of resilient, elegant skincare. Regardless of the system format, material science is shaping the next generation of barrier-centric beauty

Recovery Balm is a pharma-inspired, anhydrous barrier system designed to reinforce compromised skin with lasting hydration. Formulated without petrochemicals and avoiding BHT and PAHs, it delivers elegant occlusion through engineered wax architecture rather than heavy mineral films. Creamy yet structured, this high-performance balm soothes dry, cracked, and rough skin while maintaining refined glide and long-wear comfort.

Recovery Cream is a fragrance-free, sensitive-skin-friendly emulsion designed to deliver rich hydration without heaviness. It offers barrier-support with a non-greasy, elegant finish. Built with Kester K-45 for long-term moisturization and film support, this chassis allows formulators to incorporate additional barrier actives while maintaining sensory refinement.

This lightweight oil-in-water serum is designed as a versatile daily layer for long-term skin health. Its adaptable base allows for customized actives, supporting hydration, barrier resilience, and overall skin vitality without overpowering the routine.

This SPF Stick delivers broad-spectrum sun protection with a silky, comfortable finish. Built on an organic UV filter base, it glides effortlessly over skin, leaving a smooth, comfortable feel. Its structured formula balances wearability with hydration, making sun care a seamless, elegant step in any routine.

This all-natural, oil-in-water lotion provides daily hydration with Kester K-45 and bayberry wax, leaving skin supple and nourished without heaviness. Its silky, quick-absorbing texture ensures a smooth, non-greasy after feel, making it perfect for everyday use across all skin types.

This silky, quick-absorbing bar nourishes and restores skin with K-45 while maintaining a natural, vegan profile. Its flexible format allows a multitude of package types including propel/repel, pots, or bars.

This high-performance natural deodorant supports skin health through moisturization and barrier reinforcement, without compromising on function. Structured with Sunflower Wax and Kester Wax K-62 for smooth glide, solid hold, and all-day comfort, the formula supports high powder loading and excellent pay-off. This clean-beauty-approved chassis offers a natural alternative without sacrificing performance.

Recovery Balm

Formula: #12/25-10089/10098-7

FEATURES

  • Creates a barrier on the skin for lasting hydration
  • Soothes and prevents dry, cracked skin
  • Softens rough skin

Skin Care

Anhydrous

Traditional Ingredients

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Synkos O-1070 Synthetic Wax 3.0
Synkos M-1063 Synthetic Wax 4.0
Kester K-45 Jojoba Esters 10.0
Kester Wax K-70P C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate 5.0
Fancol LA Superfine-P Lanolin Alcohol 6.0
Almond Oil Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 36.2
Jojoba Oil Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 34.5
DL-Panthenol Panthenol 0.6
Lipo Bisabolol Bisabolol 0.1
Glycerin Glycerin 0.6

Procedure

  • Combine all ingredients
  • Melt at 80-85°C and mix until uniform
  • Continue to mix while cooling to around 70°C.
  • Pour into containers.

Recovery Cream

Formula: #12/25-109/10098-1

FEATURES

  • Rich, non-greasy cream
  • Moisturizing, delivers relief to dry skin
  • Supports barrier repair

Skin Care

Anhydrous

Traditional Ingredients

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Deionized Water Aqua 70.75
980 Carbomer Carbomer 0.1
Tealan 99 Triethanolamine 0.15
Optiphen Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol 1.0
Glycerin Glycerin 4.0
Phase B
NF Emulsifying Wax Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60 5.0
Kester Wax K-56 Cetyl Stearate 3.0
Kester K-45 Jojoba Esters 3.0
Jeechem OP Ethylhexyl Palmitate 8.0
Sweet Almond Oil Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 5.0

Procedure

  • Under medium agitation, combine Phase A ingredients one at a time while heating to 80–85 °C., except for last two materials
  • Premix glycerin and xanthan and add to batch
  • Combine Phase B ingredients and melt at 80-85°C
  • Add to Phase B to A while mixing
  • When emulsion is smooth, begin cooling
  • Cool while mixing to 45°C or less

Skin Elixir Serum

Formula: #1/26-577/10098/358-5

FEATURES

  • Pumpable, light serum for everyday use
  • Light, quick absorbing product to deliver any actives you choose
  • Flexible chassis, easily customizable

Skin Care

Anhydrous

Traditional Ingredients

Vegan

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Deionized Water Aqua 78.3
Glycerin Glycerin 6.0
Pemulen TR-2 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.1
Amp-95 Aminomethyl Propanol 0.1
Ecofarm Bilberry Leaf-G Vaccinium Myrtillus Leaf Extract 1.0
Phase B
Kostol NatureMuls Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate 3.5
Kester Wax K-45 Jojoba Esters 1.0
Kester Wax K-24 Lauryl Laurate 1.0
Phase C
Lincoserve WpH-LO Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin 1.0
Niacinamide PC Niacinamide 2.0
SonneNatural Fluidity 40P C15-19 Alkane 6.0

Procedure

  • Combine Phase A ingredients and heat to 80 – 85°C
  • Combine Phase B ingredients and heat to 80 – 85°C
  • Once both Phases are at temperature, add Phase B to Phase A and increase mixing speed
  • When the emulsion is smooth, begin cooling with slower mixing to 50°C or under
  • Add Phase C, continuing to mix well. Continue to cool while mixing to desired pour temperature

Cover Me in Sunshine (SPF Stick)

Formula: #2/26-258/421/358-1

FEATURES

  • Anhydrous sunscreen stick formulation
  • Easy, glide on application with skin soothing ingredients
  • Flexible chassis

Skin Care

Anhydrous

Traditional Ingredients

Sunscreen

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Sunflower Wax Helian Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax 18.0
Beeswax Beeswax 8.0
Kester Wax K-24 Lauryl Laurate 8.0
Kester K-45 Jojoba Esters 1.0
Parsol HMS Homosalate 10.0
Parsol 340 Octocrylene 10.0
Parsol 1789 Butyl Methoxydibenzylmethane 3.0
Parsol EHS Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.0
Jeechem TN C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 10.0
Jeechem CTG Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 10.0
Solvience DDC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 16.5
Vitamin E Acetate Vitamin E Acetate 0.5

Procedure

  • Combine all ingredients
  • Melt at 80-85 °C and mix until uniform, using shear if necessary
  • Pour into molds around 85°C
  • Allow to cool to room temperature

Active Hydration Lotion

Formula: #1/26-414/188/10098-6

FEATURES

  • Pumpable, moisturizing everyday lotion
  • Stays put with a non- greasy feel
  • All-natural formula

Skin Care

Emulsion

Natural/Clean

Vegan

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Sunflower Wax Helian Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax 18.0
Beeswax Beeswax 8.0
Kester Wax K-24 Lauryl Laurate 8.0
Kester K-45 Jojoba Esters 1.0
Parsol HMS Homosalate 10.0
Parsol 340 Octocrylene 10.0
Parsol 1789 Butyl Methoxydibenzylmethane 3.0
Parsol EHS Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.0
Jeechem TN C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 10.0
Jeechem CTG Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 10.0
Solvience DDC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 16.5
Vitamin E Acetate Vitamin E Acetate 0.5

Procedure

  • Combine all ingredients
  • Melt at 80-85 °C and mix until uniform, using shear if necessary
  • Pour into molds around 85°C
  • Allow to cool to room temperature

Melting Magic Hydration Bar

Formula: #1/26-10098/258/484- 2

FEATURES

  • Quickly treat dry skin anywhere on your body
  • All-in-one balm, suitable for twist-up sticks, push-up sticks, pots and molds
  • 100% Natural and vegan formula

Skin Care

Anhydrous

Natural/Clean

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Kester K-45 Jojoba Esters 5.0
Sunflower Wax Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax 17.0
Kester Wax K-60P Polyhydroxystearic Acid 15.0
Kester Wax K-24 Lauryl Laurate 8.0
Extra Virgin Coconut Oil Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 30.0
Jojoba Oil Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 13.0
Rice Bran Oil Oryza Sativa (Rice Bran) Oil 9.0
Soft Calcium Powder ST147010 Calcium Carbonate (and) Mica (and) Lauroyl Lysine 2.0
Vitamin E Acetate Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0

Procedure

  • Combine all ingredients
  • Melt at 80-85°C and mix until uniform
  • Pour into containers at about 80°C and cool

Skin First Deodorant

Formula: #12/25-258/10092-4

FEATURES

  • Vegan& Natural Formula
  • Formula Supports High Powder Loading\
  • Excellent Pay-Off

Skin Care

Anhydrous

Clean/Natural

Vegan

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Sunflower Wax Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax 10.0
Kester Wax K-70P C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate 3.0
Kester K-45 Jojoba Esters 3.0
Kester Wax K-62 Stearyl Behenate 4.0
Extra Virgin Coconut Oil Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 18.0
Jeechem CTG Caprylyc/Capric Triglyceride 24.0
Magnesium Hydroxide Magnesium Hydroxide 15.0
Tapioca Natural Tapioca Starch 12.0
SMA Arrowroot Powder Maranta Arundinacea Root Powder 10.0
Cedarwood Oil Organic Cedarwood Atlas Oil 0.5
Fragrance “Rose” Parfum 0.5

Procedure

  • Combine all ingredients
  • Melt at 80-85°C and mix until uniform
  • Pour into containers at approximately 80°C and cool