INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride

Kostol TMC-25 is a plant based, cationic oil-in-water emulsifier designed for both hair and skin care formulation. Developing emulsions with cationic systems offers better adhesion to hair and skin. In hair care, it will also provide conditioning, detangling, static control and frizz reduction. In skin care, this emulsifier offers skin conditioning with a silky, non-greasy after-feel. In each case, Kostol TMC-25 will emulsify and thicken your system. This is a 25% active quaternary ammonium compound that forms mild cationic emulsions.

Kostol TMC-25 is unique as it has been created without volatile materials like other behentrimonium chloride emulsifiers you may find on the market. The removal of flammable and volatile content ensures safety in the lab, production, and reduces regulatory issues for markets that prohibit these additives.


Kostol TMC-25 is a versatile emulsifier that can be used in both hair and skin care for leave-on and wash-off applications including the following:

Key Features & Benefits

  • Emulsification
  • Thickening
  • Conditioning
  • Anti-Static Agent
  • Detangling
  • Sulfate-Free Claim
  • Frizz Control
  • PEG-Free
  • RSPO

Clean Beauty

Approved for use* with leading brands including but not limited to:

  • Clean at Sephora
  • Credo Beauty
  • Whole Foods Premium Body Care

*At time of publication

Product Characteristics

INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Chloride
Typical Usage Levels: 1-10%
Form: White Pastille
Active Level: 25%
Package: 25KG Box

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Formulation Guidelines

There are some key points to remember when formulating with cationic emulsifiers. Cationic chemistry is typically incompatible with anionic products. They are characteristically not compatible with certain acrylate copolymers, xanthan gums and CMC thickeners as well as other anionic products. Keep in mind the active content as you formulate both leave-on and wash-off products and coordinate with your regulatory team for the rules based on the country of distribution.

Suggested Use Levels
Wash-Off Systems: 2.0 – 10.0%
Leave-On Systems: 0.5 – 8.0%

Citrus Hair Masque

Formula: #2/20-10013/358-4

  • Intense, sulfate-free conditioning mask
  • With Orange Wax for emolliency and shine
  • Leaves hair soft, supple and shiny
Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Deionized Water Aqua 70.5
Jaguar C-172 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.5
Glycerin Glycerin 5.0
Optiphen ND3 Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid 1.0
Phase B
Kostol TMC-251 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Chloride 8.0
Kester Wax K-241 Lauryl Laurate 6.0
Kester Wax K-481 Cetyl Palmitate 4.0
Orange Wax1 Citrus Aurantis (Orange) Peel Wax 1.0
Hemp Seed Oil4 Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil 4.0
Product Function About % Usage Natural
Kostol TMC-25 O/W Emulsifier Sulfate-Free, cationic emulsifier manufactured without IPA. Exceptional anti-static agent, conditioner with deposition properties. 0.5-8%
Kester Wax K-24 Ester, Emollient Natural ester and emollient that imparts slip, melts at body temp, offers slight cooling sensation. Provides light, dry, feel. Cuts greasiness with natural oils, esters and organic sunscreens. 1-50% X
Orange Wax Emollient Emollient that provides a unique scent and color, adds interest to the label and
energy in the formula
0.5-10% X


  • Begin heating water to 80 °C and add Phase A ingredients one by one, mixing each until uniform.
  • Combine Phase B ingredients, and heat to 80 – 85 °C until melted.
  • Add Phase B to Phase A under agitation and mix at high speed until emulsion is uniform.
  • Check pH and adjust to 4-5 as necessary.
  • Cool to 45 °C or under and pour into containers.


Stability information: Three months at 45 °C, three months at room temperature, three freeze/thaw cycles.

Supplier information: 1. Koster Keunen, Inc.; 2. Maroon, 3. Brenntag Specialties; 4. Integrity Ingredients.

citrus hair masque

Behentrimonium Chloride
Behentrimonium Methosulfate

Formulators who need to replace a cationic conditioner for an approved INCI nomenclature can count on Koster Keunen. Using Kostol TMC-25 supports marketing requirements on the INCI declaration, without substantial changes to your formulation or its performance. Our laboratory results show that 1:1 replacement in all tested formulas, were equivalent in rheology profiles and performance.

Sensory Evaluation In Formulation


Rheology Evaluation



Laboratory evaluations show that in multiple formulations, Kostol TMC-25 (Behentrimonium Chloride) is equivalent when replacing Behentrimonium Methosulfate in formulas at a 1:1 ratio.

Reviewing Volatile Content In Quaternary Emulsifiers

Koster Keunen’s’ research team evaluated other cationic systems to compare them with Kostol TMC-25. A laboratory study done on TMC-25 vs other cationic emulsifiers show Kostol TMC-25 does not contain IPA or other volatile materials that are found in other similarly manufactured industry options. The proprietary process to remove volatiles materials allows for better safety in the laboratory and production. Laboratory evaluations also show in multiple formulations, Kostol TMC-25 is functionally equivalent without the volatile to other products with the same INCI name.

Study Experiment Kostol TMC-25 Alternate MFGs
Volatile ontent* Weight loss at 90 °C <1% 7%

*likely Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA)

Koster Keunen Offers a Range of Cationic Emulsifiers for All of Your Formulation Requirements.
Contact Us Today for Further Information.