wax myths

Koster Keunen Proves the Top 7 Wax Myths FALSE!

Myth #1 – All Waxes Function the Same

FALSE. Waxes are a diverse class of organic compounds. They generally build viscosity in o/w emulsions as part of the oil phase. However, the rate at which they build viscosity can vary considerably and is dependent on at least two factors: wax chemistry and emulsion properties.

Viscosity Building Properties of Waxes in an Emulsion

FALSE. Waxes are a diverse class of organic compounds. They generally build viscosity in o/w emulsions as part of the oil phase. However, the rate at which they build viscosity can vary considerably and is dependent on at least two factors: wax chemistry and emulsion properties.

Viscosity Building Properties of Waxes in an Emulsion

Myth #2 – Waxes Behave the Same in All Systems

FALSE. Most waxes thicken and structure oils by building stable gel networks. Scientific data shows that gel hardness is usually proportional to wax percentage. However, there are many nuances and exceptions. For example, the viscosity of the oil affects the rate of thickening, as seen in chart B.

Beeswax Structures in Cosmetic Oils

Myth #3 – All Waxes Structure

FALSE. Many waxes are excellent structuring agents while others do not structure or thicken at all. For example in chart C, increasing Kester Wax K-24 had no effect on lip balm hardness, but changed the textural properties. Increasing Kester Wax K-60P softened the system and increased creaminess.

Lip Balm Structure

Myth #4 – Waxes Clog Pores

FALSE. Many waxes are known to be non-comedogenic and non-irritant. To the right is the comedogenicity and irritancy data of well-known waxes.

waxes clog pores chart*A comedogenic rating of 0-1 signifies no increase in keratosis.

Myth #5 – Waxes Make Sticky Emulsions

FALSE. Waxes are perfectly suited for skin care applications, as they contribute to formula functionality and sensoriality, offering a wide variety of textures when formulated into an emulsion and applied to the skin.

emulsion properties of waxes in skin care chart

Myth #6 – Waxes Have No Skin Benefits

FALSE. From a functional standpoint, waxes are film formers that contribute to water retention by the stratum corneum, which is why they are widely used in cosmetic and OTC drug applications.

variation in tewl chart

FALSE. From a functional standpoint, waxes are film formers that contribute to water retention by the stratum corneum, which is why they are widely used in cosmetic and OTC drug applications.

variation in tewl chart

Myth #7 – Waxes Are on “NO” Lists

FALSE. Numerous waxes are natural in origin and go through minimal processing. Waxes are accepted as natural by most certifying bodies and “clean beauty” standards. Waxes can also be sustainable and ethically sourced, like Beeswax, Carnauba and Candelilla.

waxes on no lists chart