Features

  • Natural formula
  • Flexible formula for personalization
  • Viscous formula for many brush options

Ingredients

  • Kostol Natural E: PEG-Free, natural emulsifier. Thickens well and provides a light to medium, wet break. Can be used as a primary or secondary emulsifier.
  • White Beeswax: Multifunctional, natural wax that increases stability, compatibility, prevents syneresis, offers many texture options. Makes anhydrous formulas soft and pliable, makes emulsions glossy, thick and with excellent pickup.
  • Rice Bran Wax: Natural wax with higher melting point and good structuring capabilities.

Categories

Main Topic

  • Color Cosmetics

Sub Topics

  • Clean Beauty
  • Emulsion
  • Natural
  • Unisex

Procedure

  • Premix glycerin and xanthan gum, add to Phase A and disperse well, heat to 80-85 °C.
  • Melt and mix Phase B materials, except for the pigment.
  • Once the Phase B materials are melted, slowly add the pigment under agitation and heat to 85 °C.
  • Once both Phases are at homogenous and at temperature, add Phase B to Phase A and increase mixing speed.
  • Mix at high speed until emulsion is smooth.
  • Cool with slower mixing to 60°C and add Phase C ingredients.
  • Continue mixing while cooling to 50°C or lower.
  • Pump into containers.

Stability

  • Three months at room temperature
  • Three months at 45 °C.
  • Three freeze/thaw cycles

Suppliers

  1. Koster Keunen, Inc.
  2. Barentz
  3. Sensient, Inc.
  4. Brenntag Specialties.
  5. CP Kelco
  6. Kobo

Ingredient Trade Name

INCI Name

%

Phase A
Deionized Water Aqua 60.3
Glycerin Glycerin 3.0
Keltrol CG-SFT5 Xanthan Gum 0.2
CELL-U-LASH 1506 Cellulose 1.0
Potassium Hydroxide Potassium Hydroxide .05
Phase B
Kostol Natural E1 Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate 3.0
White Beeswax1 Beeswax 6.0
Rice Bran Wax1 Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax 3.0
Stearic Acid 92% Stearic Acid 2.0
Sunflower Oil (High Oleic)2 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 5.0
Unipure Triple Black LC 9903 Iron Oxides CI 77499 12.0
Phase C
NatPure Film AP3 Pullulan (and) Sorbitol (and) Trehalose (and) Acacia Senegal Gum 3.0
Optiphen ND44 Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid 1.0