Features

  • It is not only a shellac wax replacement but the primary component in this mascara due to its outstanding performance as a film former, structurant, fixative, gloss agent, and pigment disperser.

Ingredients

  • White Beeswax: Natural wax produced by honeybees. Multifunctional; excels at making anhydrous formulas soft and pliable, and making emulsions glossy, thick and with excellent pickup. Structurant, plasticizer, thickener.
  • Kostol PGP: Non-ionic o/w emulsifier. Provides a quick break and light feel, without affecting viscosity. Designed for multiple formula types, wide pH tolerance. Usuage level 2-6%.

Categories

Main Topic

  • Color Cosmetics

Sub Topics

  • Emulsion

Procedure

  • Combine Phase A ingredients one at a time, mixing until uniform after each addition, while heating to 80-85℃.
  • Heat Phase B until melted and uniform, and then add to Phase A.
  • Mix at high speed and 80℃ until emulsion is smooth.
  • Cool slowly at low speed to 40-45℃, and add Phase C one at a time, mixing well after each addition. (Note: Last two ingredients should be added slowly and mixed vigorously. Final formula should be glossy black and free of any lumps.)

Stability

Three months at room temperature, three months at 45℃, three freeze/thaw cycles.

Suppliers

  1. Koster Keunen, Inc.
  2. Spectrum
  3. Jeen
  4. BASF
  5. Resources of Nature
  6. Shulke
  7. Rita
  8. Brenntag Specialties
  9. Sensient
  10. Lubrizol

Ingredient Trade Name

INCI Name

%
Phase A
Deionized Water Aqua 47.9
Acacia Gum2 Acacia Senegal Gum 2.0
Propylene Glycol3 Propylene Glycol 4.0
Luviskol VA 644 VP/VA Copolymer 3.0
Ink Black Chip AQ5 Black 2 (CI 77266), Polyester-5, PVP, Laureth 4 5.0
Euxyl K 9006 Benzyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin 0.8
Tealan 997 Triethanolamine 1.5
Phase B
Kester Wax SWR1 C20-40 Alcohols, Candelilla Wax, Carnauba Wax, Glycol Distearate, Montan Acid Wax 10.0
White Beeswax1 Beeswa 8.0
Kostol PGP1 Polyglyceril-3 Stearate, Beheneth-5 1.5
Stearic Acid Stearic Acid 2.0
Belsil DM10088 Dimethicone 4.0
Phase C
Fiberlon 102 DC B29 Nylon-6, Silica, Black 2 (CI 77266) 0.3
Avalure UR 45010 PPG-17/IPDI/DMPA Copolymer 5.0
SD Alcohol Alcohol Denat 5.0