It is not only a shellac wax replacement but the primary component in this mascara due to its outstanding performance as a film former, structurant, fixative, gloss agent, and pigment disperser.
White Beeswax: Natural wax produced by honeybees. Multifunctional; excels at making anhydrous formulas soft and pliable, and making emulsions glossy, thick and with excellent pickup. Structurant, plasticizer, thickener.
Kostol PGP: Non-ionic o/w emulsifier. Provides a quick break and light feel, without affecting viscosity. Designed for multiple formula types, wide pH tolerance. Usuage level 2-6%.
Combine Phase A ingredients one at a time, mixing until uniform after each addition, while heating to 80-85℃.
Heat Phase B until melted and uniform, and then add to Phase A.
Mix at high speed and 80℃ until emulsion is smooth.
Cool slowly at low speed to 40-45℃, and add Phase C one at a time, mixing well after each addition. (Note: Last two ingredients should be added slowly and mixed vigorously. Final formula should be glossy black and free of any lumps.)
Three months at room temperature, three months at 45℃, three freeze/thaw cycles.