There is no question that the trend this year in cosmetics and personal care products is waterless formulations. Waterless products are more portable than dilutions, and consumers appreciate the potential for less packaging. The secret to formulating these systems is structure and stability. Koster Keunen waxes make a variety of waterless systems stable and effective, allowing for formulations that match different market niches. We offer sustainable and natural options, which can make waterless marketing doubly effective.

Beyond Anhydrous Systems

The cosmetics and personal care industry has a long history of making a variety of effective and high-quality waterless products. Stick sunscreens, for example, have been increasing in popularity in recent years as sustainable, reef-friendly options. Lip products and pressed powder eye shadows are also excellent examples. The difference in the current market is that formulas that were once niche markets—like dry shampoos—are coming to the forefront with consumers.

As waterless products became more available, some problems became more visible as well. Texture and after feel were not up to current market standards. As a result, a whole new generation of waterless cosmetics and personal care formulas have come online, and Koster Keunen is on top of the trend.

Using the Right Formula to Get the Right Sensory Experience

Texture and skin feel are both crucial criterion for waterless formulas—the product must get the initial feel right, and the lasting sensation must be comfortable, with no greasy or tacky after feeling. The formulas below highlight ways in which getting the system right creates desirable product performance.

Sustainable Planet – Waterless Shampoo Bar

Formula#: 6/20-10005/286-6

One of the most popular ways in which waterless products are being promoted is for their benefits to the planet, and waterless shampoo is at the head of that trend. Sustainable Planet – Waterless Shampoo Bar utilizes sustainable Beeswax for structure and stability, Cocoa Butter for conditioning, and Bayberry Wax to help the bar dissolve at just the right melt point.

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Jordapon SCI Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 60.0
Plantacare 818 Coco Glucoside 20.0
Natpure Col LC717 CI 75810 0.1
Optiphen Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol 1.0
Phase B  
Sustainable Beeswax Beeswax 10.0
AR Cocoa Butter Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter 5.0
Bayberry Wax Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Wax 3.0
Phase C
Flovivia Cedarwood Oil Cedrus Atlantica (Cedarwood) Oil 0.9

Conditioning Shave Bar (Unisex)

Formula #: 1/21-10013/286-6

Conditioning Shave Bar shows how the natural moisturizing properties of American Refined Cocoa Butter combine with the cationic emulsifier, Kostol TMC-25, in a product that melts on skin contact, but finishes with a comfortable, moisturized feel.

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Kostol TMC-25 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Chloride 50.0
AR Cocoa Butter Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter 10.0
Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 20.0
Jeechem CTG Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 9.0
Coconut Oil Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 4.0
Hemp Oil Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil 2.0
Plantcare 818 Coco Glucoside 2.0
Optiphen Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol 1.0
Fragrance (choice) Parfum 2.0

Sustain-A-Bar: Lotion Bar

Formula #: 1/20-10005/484/358-5

Our earth-friendly Lotion Bar brings out the best in the portability of waterless products. Made with Sustainable Beeswax, it has global appeal, being concentrated and waterless, combined with the required creaminess and excellent absorption that a lotion must have. For a non-greasy feel, Kester Wax K-24 ester acts as a slip aid, giving the high-quality finish that differentiates your formulation from others.

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Sustainable White Beeswax Beeswax 20.0
Kester Wax K-60P Polyhydroxystearic Acid 5.0
Kester Wax K-24 Lauryl Laurate                          5.0
Castor Oil Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil 28.0
High Oleic Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 21.0
Almond Oil Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 18.0
Sipernat 11 PC Hydrated Silica 2.0
Vitamin E Acetate Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0

The wide array of available waxes makes for a terrific variety of formula options for your waterless cosmetic and personal care products. From upcycled Orange and Sunflower Wax, to Sustainable Beeswax, Koster Keunen has the ingredients to meet the high standards that quality waterless formulas demand.  Please contact us to discuss your formulation needs today.

About Koster Keunen

Koster Keunen has been working with wax since 1852 and has used our extensive experience and knowledge base to continuously develop new chemistries. Whether you are developing a new product, or need help with a reformulation or replacement, contact us to learn more about how we source, refine or develop waxes so you can create the perfect formula.