Our skin is the largest organ of the body, our barrier to the challenges of the world around us, and the number one source of sensory input in our lives. To do all of its important work, skin needs a nuanced approach to its care. Trends point to consumers moving beyond overcomplicated routines or aggressive treatments. Increasingly, they are looking to support skin’s natural barriers, maintain skin’s overall balance, and sustain moisture. Skincare systems must perform well and provide a positive sensory experience.
Building Structures that Enhance Usability
Koster Keunen is dedicated to providing the best waxes and lipids to formulators, and to that end, we employ wax chemists that continually strive to enhance their knowledge and deepen their understanding of the materials we provide. We then pass along this knowledge to you so our research can benefit your products and processes. Because stability and carrying actives is so integral to cosmetic chemistry, we have put considerable effort into understanding crystallization, and the ways in which plasticizers can control it.
Managing the architecture of the gel structure you create can make all the difference to creating attractive textures and dispersing your active ingredients. Our testing of water-in-oleogel (w/og) formulations resulted in gel charts that clearly show the properties of the emulsions with a variety of waxes, practical charts for producing w/og emulsions, and example formulas. Not only were the emulsions’ stability improved, the w/og formulations were preferred by participants in the sensory panel.
The Chemistry of Sensory Performance
Our focus on materials science in wax engineering and lipid structuring allows us to recognize and enhance the performance of our ingredients in skincare systems. Our research into the broad reach of plasticizers demonstrates this. We considered the many ways that plasticizers add features to function within skincare systems, showing that many of the demands that consumers make on skincare products are imparted by or enhanced by the choice of plasticizer.
Lotions, creams, serums, balms – whether in pumpable, pot, or stick formulations – all are evaluated by consumers by feel. And feel is most often equated to effectiveness. Refining the sensory experience meets the new demands for formulations that meet next-generation requirements for controlled payoff, speedy absorption, and protection with a light afterfeel. Koster Keunen’s example formulations take the current trends seriously, incorporating multifunctional materials, with elegant sensory profiles that showcase the strength of using the best formulation architecture to build skincare performance.
Example Formulations
An exciting feature of formulating for skin care is the opportunity to capture the many properties of waxes and lipids and put them to use in a wide variety of textures. This month’s sample formulations demonstrate the nuance available when using ingredients that multitask for performance far above such expectations.
Active Hydration Lotion
Formula #: 1/26-414/188/10098-6
Creating a standout lotion can be challenging. But when ingredients that offer multiple benefits work so well together, you make skincare worth noticing. Our Active Hydration Lotion example formulation utilizes the emollience of Bayberry Wax, a natural wax that behaves like a butter, acting as a thickener, and contributing a luxurious matte finish. Kostol Natural E emulsifies and imparts the light to medium wet break that makes application smooth. And this year’s debutante product, Kester Wax K-45 provides a diversity of benefits, as well. This natural ester gives formulations spreadability and softness, while conditioning skin, offering emollience, and barrier-forming without a heavy feel. Active Hydration Lotion is that rare formulation that shows off the finer features of simplicity.
| Ingredient Trade Name | INCI Name | % |
| Phase A | ||
| Deionized Water | Aqua | 70.0 |
| Glycerin | Glycerin | 4.0 |
| Siligel | Xanthan Gum (and) Lecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Pullulan | 0.4 |
| Lincoserve WpH-LO | Pentylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Propanediol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin | 1.0 |
| Phase B | ||
| Kostol Natural E | Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate | 4.5 |
| Bayberry Wax | Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Wax | 3.0 |
| Kester Wax K-48 | Cetyl Palmitate | 3.0 |
| Kester K-45 | Jojoba Esters | 4.0 |
| Lecinol S-10 | Hydrogenated Lecithin | 0.1 |
| Jeechem CTG | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | 5.0 |
| Cetiol CC | Dicaprylyl Carbonate | 5.0 |
Skin Elixir Serum
Formula #: 1/26-577/10098/358-5
Light feel with quick absorption are two features that make a serum functional in a skincare regimen. The benefits should be clear, but it cannot hold up the flow of the user’s routine. Skin Elixir Serum example formulation exhibits these features, with the added benefit of a flexible chassis, so your actives can be smoothly incorporated, allowing scaling up with potential for shortening development time and time to market. Kostol NatureMuls offers emulsification with medium-to-long break, allowing comfortable application, while low melt-point Kester Wax K-24 adds slip and a cool sensation. Pleasant going on, Skin Elixir Serum adds the glide and non-greasy emollience of Kester Wax K-45 to the mix. A barrier-enhancing ingredient, Kester Wax K-45 also absorbs well and adds silkiness to the system. Ease of use is showcased, as well, with its pumpable formulation, making Skin Elixir Serum a sample formula that slips gracefully into a daily skincare routine.
| Ingredient Trade Name | INCI Name | % |
| Phase A | ||
| Deionized Water | Aqua | 78.3 |
| Glycerin | Glycerin | 6.0 |
| Pemulen TR-2 | Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer | 0.1 |
| Amp-95 | Aminomethyl Propanol | 0.1 |
| Ecofarm Bilberry Leaf-G | Vaccinium Myrtillus Leaf Extract | 1.0 |
| Phase B | ||
| Kostol NatureMuls | Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate | 3.5 |
| Kester Wax K-45 | Jojoba Esters | 1.0 |
| Kester Wax K-24 | Lauryl Laurate | 1.0 |
| Phase C | ||
| Lincoserve WpH-LO | Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin | 1.0 |
| Niacinamide PC | Niacinamide | 2.0 |
| SonneNatural Fluidity 40P | C15-19 Alkane | 6.0 |
If you are building a whole new product range, updating your current skincare brand, or have your sights set on a single new product, Koster Keunen is here to help. We provide waxes and lipids along with knowledge and experience. Contact us to start a conversation.
About Koster Keunen
Koster Keunen has been working with wax since 1852 and has used our extensive experience and knowledge base to continuously develop new chemistries. Whether you are developing a new product, or need help with a reformulation or replacement, contact us to learn more about how we source, refine or develop waxes so you can create the perfect formula.
