Trends in skincare can change faster than the seasons, but the scientific pursuit of solutions to care for skin is steadfast no matter what the winds of change bring. Koster Keunen understands that building a brand requires performance in the twin spheres of manufacturing and consumer experience.
What Skin Wants
The changes that are afoot in skincare are bringing in exciting opportunities, as trends are shifting and wax technology is growing apace. Check out the Spring issue of our Personal Care Today magazine, The Buzz, for The Development of Skin Care, which details the current trend for simplifying skin routines, prompting demand for multifunctional products. Users are becoming savvy about how products benefit skin and increase resilience and hydration. Barrier-building, for example, means reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), but emphatically not old-fashioned stiff, heavy coverage. Fortunately, this is an era of innovation in materials science, more than ready to meet evolving demands.
Technology Changes for Engineered Solutions
Skin needs emollience and protection from the elements, but consumers demand that these requirements be met with systems that make using them a pleasure. Our constant effort is to apply technological innovation to the study of waxes and lipid structuring in ways that continue to improve the process of formulation. Our recent work on Advanced Crystallization Control in Personal Care Formulations explores ways in which addition of plasticizers can give control in formulation, while offering multiple benefits in sensory experience for the end user.
Example Formulations with Benefits
This month’s featured formulas highlight some of the best of our new Kester waxes, while exhibiting the advantages of known ingredients. But the best part? These samples showcase the built-in flexibility to add in your signature actives.
Recovery Cream
Formula #: 12/25-109/10098-1
Recovery Cream sample formulation is a rich formula that supports sensitive skin without heaviness. Kester Wax K-45 delivers emollience and film-forming with a sensory experience that defies expectations of a barrier-support cream. Soothing to smooth on, a pleasure to wear.
| Ingredient Trade Name | INCI Name | % |
| Phase A | ||
| Deionized Water | Aqua | 70.75 |
| 980 Carbomer | Carbomer | 0.1 |
| Tealan 99 | Triethanolamine | 0.15 |
| Optiphen | Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol | 1.0 |
| Glycerin | Glycerin | 4.0 |
| Phase B | ||
| NF Emulsifying Wax | Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60 | 5.0 |
| Kester Wax K-56 | Cetyl Stearate | 3.0 |
| Kester K-45 | Jojoba Esters | 3.0 |
| Jeechem OP | Ethylhexyl Palmitate | 8.0 |
| Sweet Almond Oil | Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil | 5.0 |
Cover Me in Sunshine SPF Stick
Formula #: 2/26-258/421/358-1
Fancy a stick formulation that changes perceptions? Cover Me in Sunshine SPF Stick glides on. It makes putting on the “sunny” easy and comfortable. Kester Wax K-45 gives softness and spreadability, while Sunflower Wax does what it does best and structures the stick. White Beeswax adds pliability to this smooth anhydrous formula.
| Ingredient Trade Name | INCI Name | % |
| Phase A | ||
| Sunflower Wax | Helian Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax | 18.0 |
| Beeswax | Beeswax | 8.0 |
| Kester Wax K-24 | Lauryl Laurate | 8.0 |
| Kester K-45 | Jojoba Esters | 1.0 |
| Parsol HMS | Homosalate | 10.0 |
| Parsol 340 | Octocrylene | 10.0 |
| Parsol 1789 | Butyl Methoxydibenzylmethane | 3.0 |
| Parsol EHS | Ethylhexyl Salicylate | 5.0 |
| Jeechem TN | C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate | 10.0 |
| Jeechem CTG | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | 10.0 |
| Solvience DDC | Dicaprylyl Carbonate | 16.5 |
| Vitamin E Acetate | Vitamin E Acetate | 0.5 |
The Koster Keunen team will be at the upcoming NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, May 19 & 20, 2026, where we will be delighted to discuss upcoming skin care trends, new formulas and our market expertise. Several of our example Skin Care Formulas will be shown at NYSCC. Have you made an appointment with us to see them? Contact us or stop by Booth 1763. We will be pleased to talk with you about your brand’s specific formulation requirements.
About Koster Keunen
Koster Keunen has been working with wax since 1852 and has used our extensive experience and knowledge base to continuously develop new chemistries. Whether you are developing a new product, or need help with a reformulation or replacement, contact us to learn more about how we source, refine or develop waxes so you can create the perfect formula.
