Solve Formula Stability Challenges with Koster Keunen Plasticizers

Developing a feel to match a cosmetic or personal care product’s unique attributes can be one of the biggest challenges to bringing a new product to market. Add to this the need to keep a formula shelf stable, and you begin to understand why our chemists are always developing new combinations of waxes to meet challenges as they are presented to us by clients and the general market.

Koster Keunen’s Kester Wax plasticizers are used in many cosmetic formulas to suppress crystallization and improve film formation, adhesion, and formula stability.

The Right Plasticizer Can Provide Both Stability and Feel

The wide variety of formulas in personal care products increases the need for innovative plasticizers to maintain optimal consistency. In anhydrous systems, beeswax thickens and structures oils by forming stable gel networks where gel viscosity and hardness are proportional to the percentage of wax, but also depend on oil/wax compatibility. By manipulating a few variables, we can develop cosmetic products that run the gamut of textures, from waxy hard sticks to soft, sticky balms. Koster Keunen’s Kester Wax plasticizers, like Kester Wax K-82P and Kester Wax K-60P, are used in many cosmetic formulas to suppress crystallization and improve film formation, adhesion and formula stability. Take just three examples from our formulary to see the impact these Kester waxes can have.

Formula#1: Flush Lip Tint

Used in Flush Glossy Lip Tint Formula #1/20-421/484-4 In our Flush Lip Tint, the unique feature is the overall texture, with Kester Wax K-60P used in combination with Sustainable Beeswax to create the right structure and feel. Kester Wax K-60P provides a two-for-one impact on the formula, as it not only helps stabilize the formula, but also adds a creamy texture to the lip tint to create an enhanced user experience.

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Kester Wax K-60P Polyhydroxystearic Acid 11.5
Sustainable Beeswax Beeswax 12.0
Extra Virgin Coconut Oil Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 5.0
Castor Oil Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil 24.5
Golden Jojoba Oil Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 18.0
Jeechem CTG Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 16.0
Vitamin E Acetate Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0
Phase B (Color Base)
Castor Oil Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil 11.58
Unipure Red LC-3203 Carmine 0.42

Formula#2: Bees Knees Sugar Balm

Used in The Bee’s Knees Sugar Balm #8/17-421/154-7B Two different formulas with unique challenges are met equally well with Kester Wax K-82P. In The Bee’s Knees Sugar Balm, the high percentage of oil and sugar requires a thickener to maintain structure and particle suspension (beeswax in this case). Kester wax K-82P provides two benefits in one as it suppresses oil migration while providing flowability, making it easy for the product to be applied easily and evenly.

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Beeswax Beeswax 7.0
Kester Wax K-82P C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate 5.0
High Oleic Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 29.0
Dermol IPP3 Isopropyl Palmitate 7.0
Polyaldo 10-1-O4 Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate 5.0
Polyaldo 3-1-S4 Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate 4.0
Tiger Nut Oil5 Cyperus Esculentus Root Oil 1.0
Vitamin E Acetate6 Tocopheryl Acetate 1.5
Floviva Geranium Rose Oil7 Pelargonium Graveolens Oil 0.5
Sugar8 Sucrose 40.0

Formula#3: Liquid Eye Shadow

Used in the Liquid Eye Shadow Formula 12/16-447/154/124-5 Developing our Liquid Eye Shadow formula presented a very different challenge, namely making the product thin and soft enough for spreadability, but thick and creamy enough for application in a single swipe. In this case we combined the texturizing agent, Enhans PC-38, with our Kester Wax K-82P, to achieve the right combination and deliver a unique product to a market looking for personal fashion statements that are easy to apply.

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Enhans PC-38 Polyethylene, Polycyclopentadiene, Stearoxy Dimethicone 13.0
Kester Wax K-82P C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate 6.0
Kester Wax K-82H Synthetic Beeswax 2.0
Jeechem OD Octyldodecanol 12.0
Mica Sericite 285 Mica 4.0
SynCrystal Jade Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Ferric Ferrocyanide, Tin Oxide 6.0
Arctic Flare Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Titanium Dioxide 4.0
Phase B (Color Base)
Wickenol 151 Isononyl Isononanoate 7.0
Belsil PDM 20 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone 5.0
Unipure Green LC790 Chromium Hydroxide Green (CI 77289) 7.6
Cellini Yellow Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Yellow 5 Lake, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Palmitic Acid 3.0
Unipure Black LC 989 Iron Oxides (CI 77499) 2.4
Phase C
Belsil TMS 803 Trimethylsiloxysilicate 5.0
Purolan IDD8 Isododecane 23.0

Many Formulation Options

In all three of these formulas, our chemists used decades of experience with waxes to create the feel and structure needed for the type of product and market expectations. An understanding of the chemistry of beeswax and how it behaves when combined with oils and other waxes in a wide variety of formulations are key factors for success in personal care and cosmetic products.

About Koster Keunen

Koster Keunen has been working with wax since 1852 and has used our extensive experience and knowledge base to continuously develop new chemistries. Whether you are developing a new product, or need help with a reformulation or replacement, contact us to learn more about how we source, refine or develop waxes so you can create the perfect formula.