Stick with Koster Keunen When Creating Strong Structured Emulsions

Time is of the essence when you are building cosmetic systems. Trends may be difficult to capture if your chemists get bogged down in the formulation process. And when the current movement is toward convenience and portability, sticks are the go-to structure. But how to deliver hydration and actives in a stable stick? Our chemists have recently applied their extensive experience to solving this conundrum. Their discovery? They found that choosing with the right plan and using water-in-oleogel charts to predict the correct percentages of ingredients points the way to the results you are looking for.

Many variations of oils and waxes have been used over the centuries and the early water-in-oil (w/o) formulations used basic mechanical mixing and rudimentary emulsifiers to hold their texture. Over time, the best systems are the ones that sourced their ingredients well. Pond’s, for example, began sourcing their beeswax from Koster Keunen in the early 1900s. The naturally sun-bleached beeswax helped create the famous stable, glossy, bright white cold cream. Yet throughout changes over time, Koster Keunen’s white beeswax remains the glue that keeps Pond’s cold cream together.

The w/o emulsion has given us an amazing array of effective cosmetic formulations, but the current taste for innovation in cosmetic systems is creating the need to add to that historical foundation.

Beginning with oleogels in anhydrous systems with a variety of waxes, our chemists posited that there was likely to be a direct correlation between the structural properties of water-in-oleogel (w/og) systems and their oleogel counterparts. The w/og emulsions were, indeed, more stable than their w/o counterparts, because the internal water droplets are stabilized by the more complex gel network.  The experiment is discussed in detail in the Winter issue of The Buzz, where you’ll also find the w/og charts that illuminate their findings. Additionally, our team built a flowchart to clarify and assist the process for formulators who see the benefits of using this process in designing further structured emulsions.

Natural Soft Balm sets the bar high with a stunning 55% water in a structured water-in-oil emulsion. It is formulated to allow the inclusion of actives, showing the way to deliver the signature ingredients that your brand’s consumers crave. This system offers the novel texture, and a playtime that gives users a pleasant feel when applying the balm all over.

Formula #: 6/23-421/358-6

Our Sunscreen Stick with Cooling Sensation triumphs in the structured water-in-oil category. A true stick texture that offers a chassis capable of including the actives that set each system apart from all others. This sunscreen utilizes Kester Wax K-24, as well, which brings its “instant slip,” adding a cooling feel and non-greasy afterfeel to this convenient and travel-friendly sunscreen system.  

Formula #: 9/23-451/358/402-5

The many needs of cosmetic systems can seem to be as immiscible as the ingredients they require. Trying to incorporate water and water-soluble actives, and getting it all to coalesce into a stable stick? We can provide a detailed presentation on this water in oleogel technology. Reach out to us and we can schedule an appointment.