Kester Wax Explained

Download Kester Wax Brochure

 

Ester chemistry used in personal care and cosmetics can range from oils to waxy solids depending on their molecular weight. The differences in composition will affect the product form, its properties, and its behavior in finished formulas.

Each of Koster Keunen’s Kester Waxes are created for different performances in finished products.

FORMULATION GUIDELINES
Each Kester Wax follow the same basic guidelines. Melt into oil phase. Best practices for working with wax chemistries is to melt 5-10 degrees over melt point.

CLEAN BEAUTY
Approved for use* with leading brands including but not limited to: Clean at Sephora, Credo Beauty and Whole Foods Premium Body Care.

 

* at the time of print

Products

Wax esters allow specific characteristics of a formula to be designed. They are advanced tools for the chemist to shape distinct features.

Formulas

Example formulas showcasing each of the Kester Wax products listed.

Kester Wax K-24

Wax No. 6358B

A non-traditional wax ester, Kester Wax K-24 is a solid at room temperature with performances comparable to a liquid ester in formulations. This product will not structure systems. Kester K-24 is highly compatible in all systems, similar to most cosmetic oils and liquid esters.

Solid to Liquid in a Blink

Kester Wax K-24 has a fast phase change allowing this ester to transition from solid to liquid instantly. The chemistry lends an initial cooling effect in some emulsion formulas, and provides that “instant slip” in formulation provided by the low melt point (25°C).

Applications

Highly versatile ester wax that can be used in all applications including Skin Care, Hair Care, Color Cosmetics, Sunscreens, AP/DEO, Wash-off or Leave-on products. Acceptable for natural, clean beauty and vegan formulas.

 

SKIN CARE HAIR CARE COLOR COSMETICS
  • Emulsions & Lotions
  • Baby Care
  • Face Care
  • Lip Care
  • AP/DEO
  • Sticks & Balms
  • Ointments
  • Massage Oils
  • Sunscreens
  • Conditioners
  • Shampoos
  • Styling
  • Pomades
  • Clays
  • Anhydrous
  • Masks
  • Chemical Treaments
  • Lipsticks
  • Pencils
  • Anhydrous
  • Foundations
  • Pressed Powders
  • Lip Balm
  • Make-up Remover
FEATURES AND BENEFITS
  • Ester
  • Emollient
  • Melting Texture
  • Silicone Alternative
  • Dry Powdery Feel
  • Cooling Effect
  • Reduces Greasiness

CLEAN BEAUTY

  • Natural – Plant Based
  • RSPO
  • Clean Beauty Approved

PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS

  • INCI: Lauryl Laurate
  • Typical Usage: 1-50%
  • Form: Paste
  • Package: 20kg Pail

Kester Wax K-48

Wax No. 6120P

A non-traditional wax ester, Kester Wax K-48 is a natural, plant-based ester that provides opacity, emolliency and body in both Leave-on and Wash-off formulas. This product will not structure systems. It is highly compatible in all systems.

Bright White Opacity

Kester Wax K-48 provides opacity in emulsions without building significant viscosity. Chemists can control opacity and support formula body without affecting thickness.

Applications

Highly versatile ester wax that can be used in all applications including Skin Care, Hair Care, Color Cosmetics, Sunscreens, AP/DEO, Wash-off or Leave-on products. Acceptable for natural, clean beauty and vegan formulas.

 

SKIN CARE HAIR CARE COLOR COSMETICS
  • Conditioners
  • Shampoos
  • Styling
  • Pomades
  • Masks
  • Emulsions & Lotions
  • Cleansers
  • Face & Body Washes
  • Baby Care
  • Face Care
  • Sunscreens
  • Lipsticks
  • Pencils
  • Anhydrous
  • Foundations
  • Lip Balm
FEATURES AND BENEFITS

EMULSIONS

  • Opacity
  • Emulsion Glass
  • Body Not Viscosity
  • Can Increase Firmness & Bounce

ANHYDROUS

  • Supports Stick Hardness
  • Increases Stability
  • No/Low Effect on Deposition

CLEAN BEAUTY

  • Natural – Plant Based
  • RSPO
  • Clean Beauty Approved

PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS

  • INCI: Cetyl Palmitate
  • Typical Usage: 1-15%
  • Form: Pastille
  • Package: 25kg Box

Kester Wax K-56

Wax No. 6128P

Kester Wax K-56 is a natural wax ester. In emulsions it provides viscosity, opacity, emolliency, and has thickening capabilities. It can be used in color cosmetics as well, and is highly compatible in most systems.

Opacity and Viscosity in One

Kester Wax K-56 provides opacity and viscosity simultaneously in emulsions.

Applications

Versatile ester wax that can be used in all applications including Skin Care, Hair Care, Color Cosmetics, Sunscreens, AP/DEO, Wash-off and Leave-on products. Acceptable for natural, clean beauty and vegan formulas.

 

SKIN CARE HAIR CARE COLOR COSMETICS
  • Emulsions & Lotions
  • Cleansers
  • Baby Care
  • Face Care
  • AP/DEO
  • Sunscreens
  • Conditioners
  • Shampoos
  • Styling
  • Pomades
  • Masks
  • Anhydrous
  • Lipsticks
  • Pencils
  • Hot Pours
  • Anhydrous
  • Foundations
  • Lip Balm
FEATURES AND BENEFITS

ALL FORUMLATIONS

  • Plasticizing
  • Reduce Synersis
  • Texurizing
  • Adds Creaminess

ANHYDROUS

  • Reduce Sweating
  • Create Creamy Texture
  • Stop Graininess
  • Consistency
  • Soft & Stable

CLEAN BEAUTY

  • Natural – Plant Based
  • Clean Beauty Approved

PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS

  • INCI: Polyhydroxystearic Acid
  • Typical Usage: 1-25%
  • Form: Paste
  • Package: 20kg Box

Kester Wax K-59

Wax No. 6129P

Kester Wax K-59 is a natural, plant-based wax ester. In emulsions it provides opacity, emolliency, and body and in anhydrous systems provides hardness and some structure. It is compatible in most systems.

Bright White Opacity

Kester Wax K-59 provides opacity and increased body in emulsions without building significant viscosity. Increases richness in overall feel. Chemists can control opacity and support formula body without affecting thickness.

Applications

Highly versatile ester wax that can be used in all applications including Skin Care, Hair Care, Color Cosmetics, Sunscreens, AP/DEO, Wash-off and Leave-on products. Acceptable for natural, clean beauty and vegan formulas.

 

SKIN CARE HAIR CARE COLOR COSMETICS
  • Emulsions & Lotions
  • Cleansers
  • Baby Care
  • Face Care
  • AP/DEO
  • Sunscreens
  • Conditioners
  • Shampoos
  • Styling
  • Pomades
  • Masks
  • Anhydrous
  • Lipsticks
  • Pencils
  • Hot Pours
  • Anhydrous
  • Foundations
  • Lip Balm
FEATURES AND BENEFITS

EMULSIONS

  • Opacity
  • Emulsion Gloss
  • Body Not Viscosity
  • Can Increase Firmness & Bounce
  • Creates Richer Emulsion Feel

ANHYDROUS

  • Primary Structurant (15-20%)
  • Secondary Structurant (<10%)
  • Increases Hardness
  • Reduces Slip

CLEAN BEAUTY

  • Natural – Plant Based
  • RSPO
  • Clean Beauty Approved

PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS

  • INCI: Stearyl Stearate
  • Typical Usage: 1-25%
  • Form: Pastille
  • Package: 25kg Box

Kester Wax K-60P

Wax No. 484B

Kester Wax K-60P is a non-traditional wax ester that is a natural plasticizer with a wide melt point range of 50°-70°C. It is ideal for creating creamier textures while also increasing product stability.

Formulation Tips

Fixing a formula? Start with 3% and replace a main oil, however be aware that % usage is formula dependent and desired effect. May add some structure and thickening.

Applications

Plasticizing ester wax that can be used in many applications including Skin Care, Hair Care, and Color Cosmetics. Acceptable for natural, clean beauty, palm-free and vegan formulas.

 

SKIN CARE HAIR CARE COLOR COSMETICS
  • Emulsions & Lotions
  • Balms
  • Baby Care
  • Face Care
  • AP/DEO
  • Squeezable Anhydrous
  • Natural Fixative
  • Styling
  • Pomades
  • Anhydrous
  • Masks
  • Lipsticks
  • Pencils
  • Hot Pours
  • Anhydrous
  • Foundations
  • Lip Balm
FEATURES AND BENEFITS

EMULSIONS

  • Opacity
  • Emulsion Gloss
  • Body Not Viscosity
  • Can Increase Firmness & Bounce
  • Creates Richer Emulsion Feel

ANHYDROUS

  • Primary Structurant (15-20%)
  • Secondary Structurant (<10%)
  • Increases Hardness
  • Reduces Slip

CLEAN BEAUTY

  • Natural – Plant Based
  • RSPO
  • Clean Beauty Approved

PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS

  • INCI: Stearyl Stearate
  • Typical Usage: 1-25%
  • Form: Pastille
  • Package: 25kg Box

Kester Wax K-62

Wax No. 130P

Kester Wax K-62 is a natural wax ester that should be used as a main or secondary structurant in anhydrous systems. It can be used in any anhydrous system and can be used at low levels in emulsions (<5%).

Natural Structurant

Kester Wax K-62 will work as both a primary or secondary structurant in anhydrous sticks and systems and has a similar melt point (62° C) to beeswax while being vegan.

Applications

Structuring ester wax that can be used in many applications and is acceptable for natural, clean beauty, palm-free and vegan formulas.

 

SKIN CARE HAIR CARE COLOR COSMETICS
  • Sticks & Balms
  • AP/DEO
  • Emulsions
  • Anhydrous
  • Styling
  • Pomades
  • Lipsticks
  • Pencils
  • Hot Pours
  • Anhydrous
  • Sticks
  • Balms
  • Foundations
  • Lip Balms
FEATURES AND BENEFITS

EMULSIONS

  • Can Reduce Viscosity
  • Can Improve Slip
  • No Waxy Emulsion Feel

ANHYDROUS

  • Primary Structurant (15-20%)
  • Secondary Structurant (< 5%)
  • Increases Hardness
  • Increases MP
  • Can Increase Opacity

CLEAN BEAUTY

  • Natural – Plant Based
  • Clean Beauty Approved

PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS

  • INCI: Cetyl Behenate
  • Typical Usage: 1-25%
  • Form: Pastille
  • Package: 25kg Box

Kester Wax K-72

Wax No. 131P

Kester Wax K-72 is a natural wax ester that increases formula melt point, improves opacity, structure and stability, and has gelling capabilities in anhydrous systems.

Natural, Palm-Free Melt Point Increaser

Kester Wax K-72 can support your system by increasing the thermal stability and melt point of all anhydrous systems.

Applications

This ester wax can be used in all applications. It is acceptable for natural, clean beauty, palm-free and vegan formulas.

 

SKIN CARE HAIR CARE COLOR COSMETICS
  • Anhydrous
  • Sticks
  • Balms
  • Ointments
  • Emulsions
  • AP/DEO
  • Cleansing Balms
  • Sunscreens
  • Styling
  • Pomades
  • Anhydrous
  • Lipsticks
  • Pencils
  • Hot Pours
  • Anhydrous
  • Sticks
  • Balms
  • Foundations
  • Lip Balms
FEATURES AND BENEFITS

EMULSIONS (< 5%)

  • Can Reduce Viscosity
  • Can Improve Slip
  • No Waxy Emulsion Feel

ANHYDROUS

  • Increases Formula MP
  • Primary Structurant (15-20%)
  • Secondary Structurant (5-10%)
  • Increases Hardness
  • Improves Structure
  • Can Increase Formula Opacity

CLEAN BEAUTY

  • Natural – Plant Based
  • Clean Beauty Approved