Manufacturers whose products depend on waxes for viscosity and structure have leaned on microcrystalline wax to meet the challenge. But what of the challenge to use fewer petrochemicals? What can producers of personal care lines choose to avoid BHT and other undesirable components of petroleum-based waxes? Look no further than Koster Keunen’s newest SynKos Wax, SynKos M-1063, a synthetic option to replace microcrystalline wax.
Putting a New Spin on Synthetics
SynKos M-1063 was developed in the lab to share the features of microcrystalline wax. Starting with natural gas and hydrogen to form hydrocarbon molecules, building up to a targeted molecular weight. The resulting predominantly linear hydrocarbons are then isomerized to introduce the branching characteristic of microcrystalline wax, enhancing its functionality. In head-to-head comparisons, SynKos M-1063 performed comparably to microcrystalline wax in tests of viscosity and gel-forming capability.
Sample Formulas, Exemplary Results
When you look at shifting from one key ingredient to another, nothing beats successful examples that can act as guides. Koster Keunen formulates sample product formulas that offer a preview into how ingredients can be utilized for optimal results. This month’s feature formulas were made first with microcrystalline wax, which was then replaced with SynKos M-1063 – showing how easy it is to make quality formulations without petrochemicals.
Every Strand Hair Cream
Formula #: 1/25-10013/10093/358-4
When the weather turns the careful coiffure to frizz, Every Strand Hair Cream example formula demonstrates that every mane can be tamed with a pleasantly non-greasy after-feel. Not only does this formula feature the strengths of Kostol TMC-25 for creating hair products with highest marks in conditioning, it includes SynKos M-1063 as a plasticizer and melt-point enhancer, and Kester Wax K-24 with its ability to create a feel that is smooth, has great slip, and reduction in greasy feel. This ideal combination really shines in an example formula that is dimethicone-free, BHT-free, sulfate-free, and IPA-free. All of the goodness and none of the things that could cloud your brand’s image.
| Ingredient Trade Name | INCI Name | % |
| Phase A | ||
| Deionized Water | Aqua | 83.2 |
| Jaguar C-17 | Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride | 0.4 |
| Zemea Propanediol | Propanediol | 2.0 |
| Celquat SC-230 | Polyquaternium-10 | 0.2 |
| Lincoserve WpH-LO | Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin | 1.0 |
| Citric Acid | Citric Acid | 0.2 |
| Phase B | ||
| Kostol TMC-25 | Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Chloride | 6.0 |
| Synkos M-1063 | Synthetic Wax | 5.0 |
| Kester Wax K-24 | Lauryl Laurate | 2.0 |
Everyday Kiss Lip Balm
Formula #: 1/25-148/858/10093-2
Lip balms are subjected to the harshest conditions: stuck in a pocket, in a hot car, or left out in the cold. Everyone wants to use them, and expectations for performance are high. Our Everyday Kiss example formula can take the heat. SynKos M-1063 increases the melt point of this vegan stick, while SynKos 2050 and Synthetic Candelilla Wax help to create a system with a strong gel structure and just the right level of gloss and smooth payout. The most sensitive skin demands formulation that can meet the highest objectives.
| Ingredient Trade Name | INCI Name | % |
| Phase A | ||
| Synkos 2050 | Synthetic Wax | 12.0 |
| Synthetic Candelilla | Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Wax, Stearic Acid | 14.0 |
| Synkos M-1063 | Synthetic Wax | 5.0 |
| High Oleic Sunflower Oil | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil | 29.0 |
| Jeechem CTG | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | 33.0 |
| Dermol IPP | Isopropyl Palmitate | 7.0 |
Koster Keunen is taking waxes to new heights. In the past, synthetic may have meant “petroleum-based,” but Koster Keunen’s SysKos M-1063 allows your product range to turn the melt point up without the connotations associated with crude oil-based microcrystalline wax. Our wax chemists would be delighted to discuss your plans for replacing microcrystalline wax. Contact us to start a conversation!
About Koster Keunen
Koster Keunen has been working with wax since 1852 and has used our extensive experience and knowledge base to continuously develop new chemistries. Whether you are developing a new product, or need help with a reformulation or replacement, contact us to learn more about how we source, refine or develop waxes so you can create the perfect formula.
