Have you begun to notice that some skin care launch language sounds clinical? We are seeing terms like barrier repair, TEWL, dermatologist tested. Brands are leaning into the trust found in pharmaceutical products, and the consumer wants it.
Skin Care Is Borrowing from the Pharmacy
Pharma-inspired thinking is no longer limited to the pharmacy counter. Even color cosmetics are getting in on it, as tints, balms, and complexion products now arrive with barrier, hydration, and skin health claims once reserved for treatment products.
That is where the old chemical workhorses get a second look. Petrolatum, paraffin, ozokerite, and microcrystalline waxes have long given topical pharmaceuticals their structure and occlusion properties. But the old way of formulating skin care products often carries a petroleum origin that is hard to square with educated consumers.
Rethinking the Base
Mineral hydrocarbon waxes can raise questions about PAH content, and some wax grades rely on BHT as an antioxidant. Both draw scrutiny from regulators and retailer ingredient standards, and both are easy to avoid.
The SynKos line removes the question. These synthetic waxes are designed without petroleum, BHT, or PAHs. They are not mineral hydrocarbons, contain no heavy metals, are Colipa compliant and REACH exempt, and were developed to support globally-compliant formulations.
Meet Recovery Cream and Recover Balm
Recovery Cream and Recovery Balm show what happens when the base gets a rethink. Ozokerite, microcrystalline and petrolatum are replaced in these example formulations. A combination of SynKos and Kester products provide the same structure, creaminess and barrier protection. The SynKos products (M-1063 and O-1070) replace Ozokerite and microcrystalline waxes. SynKos O-1070 adds harder structure and a higher melt point, while SynKos M-1063 offers thickening and creaminess. Kester K-45 replaces petrolatum by providing trans-epidural water loss (TEWL) reduction and barrier protection.
Recovery Cream
Formula #: 12/25-109/10098-1
This sample formula presents a rich, non-greasy, oil-in-water cream that moisturizes dry skin and supports barrier repair. Kester K-45 does the barrier work. Its linear ester structure resembles lipids found in human sebum, and once applied, it helps reduce TEWL. Third party testing also shows no potential for eliciting dermal irritation or inducing sensitization.
| Ingredient Trade Name | INCI Name | % |
| Phase A | ||
| Deionized Water | Aqua | 70.75 |
| 980 Carbomer | Carbomer | 0.1 |
| Tealan 99 | Triethanolamine | 0.15 |
| Optiphen | Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol | 1.0 |
| Glycerin | Glycerin | 4.0 |
| Phase B | ||
| NF Emulsifying Wax | Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60 | 5.0 |
| Kester Wax K-56 | Cetyl Stearate | 3.0 |
| Kester K-45 | Jojoba Esters | 3.0 |
| Jeechem OP | Ethylhexyl Palmitate | 8.0 |
| Sweet Almond Oil | Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil | 5.0 |
Recovery Balm
Formula #: 12/25-10089/10098-7
Recovery Balm is an anhydrous balm that creates a barrier on the skin for lasting hydration, softens rough skin, and soothes dry, cracked skin. SynKos O-1070 and SynKos M-1063 supply the structure, while Kester K-45 at brings the barrier protection and luxurious slip for skin feel and care.
| Ingredient Trade Name | INCI Name | % |
| Phase A | ||
| Synkos O-1070 | Synthetic Wax | 3.0 |
| Synkos M-1063 | Synthetic Wax | 4.0 |
| Kester K-45 | Jojoba Esters | 10.0 |
| Kester Wax K-70P | C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate | 5.0 |
| Fancol LA Superfine-P | Lanolin Alcohol | 6.0 |
| Almond Oil | Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil | 36.2 |
| Jojoba Oil | Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil | 34.5 |
| DL-Panthenol | Panthenol | 0.6 |
| Lipo Bisabolol | Bisabolol | 0.1 |
| Glycerin | Glycerin | 0.6 |
So, Does Recovery Need Petroleum?
If a repair claim is going on the front of the jar, perhaps the base should earn pride of place too. A cream supported by Kester K-45 and a balm structured with SynKos deliver the cushion, occlusion, and glide formulators expect, with a cleaner ingredient story.
Whether you are creating new systems, taking a standard up to the next level, or reformulating your signature line, Koster Keunen has the waxes that deliver for your range. Contact us to start a conversation.
About Koster Keunen
Koster Keunen has been working with wax since 1852 and has used our extensive experience and knowledge base to continuously develop new chemistries. Whether you are developing a new product, or need help with a reformulation or replacement, contact us to learn more about how we source, refine or develop waxes so you can create the perfect formula.
