Kostol NatureMuls: Natural, PEG-free nonionic o/w emulsifier. Provides a medium to long break, with some viscosity growth. Can be used as a primary or secondary emulsifier. Usage level 3-8%.
White Beeswax: Natural wax produced by honeybees. Multifunctional; excels at making anhydrous formulas soft and pliable, and making emulsions glossy, thick and with excellent pickup. Structurant, plasticizer, thickener.
Bayberry Wax: Natural wax extracted from the Bayberry fruit. Low melt point solid, behaves like a butter in most formulations. Emollient, thickener, matte finish. Usage Level 0.5-15%.
Cocoa Butter: Natural wax extracted from Cocoa beans. Low melt point solid, provides thickening, some structure, and nourishment to skin and hair. Emollient, thickener, glossy finish. Usage level up to 100%.
Kester Wax K-385: Naturally derived wax ester of plant origin. Low melt point solid, provides texture and emolliency in emulsions, secondary structuring in anhydrous formulas. Usage level 1-20%.
Lotion or Cream
Premix glycerin and xanthan gum and add to the water.
Add remaining ingredients one at a time, while mixing and heating to 80-85°C.
Combine Phase B ingredients and heat to 80-90°C, and add to Phase A.
Mix at high speed for 30 minutes.
Begin cooling to desired pour temperature. *Adjust pH to 6–7 as needed.
Three months at 45°C, three months at room temperature, three freeze/thaw cycles.