Features

  • Anhydrous concealer with medium to full coverage.
  • One swipe application.
  • Functional system with room to play from matte to dewy.

Ingredients

  • Enhans SB-63: Increases payout and contributes to the overall creaminess of the formula.
  • SynKos Wax 2060: Thickener, suitable replacement for petrolatum and other petrochemical waxes.
  • Kester Wax K-24: Naturally derived wax ester of plant origin. Low melt point semi-solid, melts on body contact, provides cooling sensation. Adds slip, reduces greasy feel, dimethicone alternative. Usage level up to 50%.
  • Kester Wax K-82P: Unique plasticizer. High melt point soft wax improves stability, compatibility, and feel of anhydrous systems without affecting structure. Creates jellies and squeezables. Usage level 0.25-20%.

Categories

Main Topic

  • Color Cosmetics

Sub Topics

  • Anhydrous
  • Unisex

Procedure

  • Combine Phase B/Color Base ingredients and mix until homogeneous, milling if needed.
  • Combine Phase A ingredients, heat to 85–90°C and mix until uniform.
  • Slowly add Phase B to A with mixing, continuing until uniform.
  • Add Phase C to batch.
  • Pour into containers around 80°C.

Stability

One month at room temperature, one month at 45°C, three freeze/thaw cycles.

Suppliers

  1. Koster Keunen, Inc.
  2. Jeen
  3. Brenntag Specialties
  4. Sensient
  5. Presperse

Ingredient Trade Name

INCI Name

%
Phase A
Enhans SB-631 Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone Beeswax 15.5
SynKos 20601 Synthetic Wax 3.0
Kester Wax K-241 Lauryl Laurate 5.5
Kester Wax K-82P1 C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate 6.0
Jeechem OP2 Octyl Palmitate 10.0
Belsil PDM 203 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone 12.0
Phase B
Jeechem CTG2 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 18.0
Titanium Dioxide3 Titanium Dioxide CI 77891 14.8
Unipure Black LC 9894 Iron Oxides CI 77499 0.2
Unipure Red LC 3814 Iron Oxides CI 77491 0.76
Unipure Yellow LC 1824 Iron Oxides CI 77492 2.44
Mica Sericite3 Mica 3.8
Phase C
Permethyl 99A5 Isododecane 8.0