Features

  • Soft, bouncy formula with excellent pickup
  • Light to medium hold
  • Lanolin free, vegan formula

Ingredients

Kester Wax BK-40

Unique branched wax ester. Brittle solid with a low melt point, can replace natural butters in emulsions, providing film forming, thickening and emolliency, without risk of oxidation.

Kostol ApiFree

Natural, vegan blend designed to mimic the properties of PEG-8 Beeswax. Adds slip in anhydrous formulations. Improves stability in emulsions. Usage level 1-10%.

Permulgin D

Low cost high performing emulsifier.

Categories

Main Topic

  • Hair Care

Sub Topics

  • Emulsion
  • Hair Styling
  • Unisex
  • Vegan

Procedure

  • Begin heating water at 80°C. Add Phase A ingredients one by one, mixing until uniform.
  • Combine Phase B ingredients, and heat to 80-85°C until melted.
  • Add Phase B to Phase A under agitation and mix at high speed until emulsion is uniform.
  • Check pH and adjust to 6-7.
  • Pour into containers at 60-65°C

Stability Information

Three months at 45°C, three months at room temperature, three freeze/thaw cycles.

Supplier Information

  1. Koster Keunen, Inc.
  2. Lubrizol
  3. Rita
  4. Brenntag Specialties

Ingredient Trade Name

INCI Name

%

Phase A
Deionized Water Aqua 55.15
Disodium EDTA Disodium EDTA 0.05
Pemulen TR-12 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.1
Tealan 993 Triethanolamine 0.2
Optiphen4 Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol 1.0
Glycerin Glycerin 3.0
PVP K-904 PVP 4.5
Phase B
Branched Kester Wax BK-401 C32-36 Isoalkyl Stearate 22.0
Kostol Apifree1 Behenyl Behenate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate 8.0
Permulgin D1 Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20 6.0