Cosmetic chemistry exists in a special zone of chemistry, one where complex formulation, compatibility challenges, and demands for carefully curated texture are equally important. As demand for specific actives increases, formulation becomes ever trickier because consumers never yield in their requirement that textures be pleasant—even luxurious. In our quest to provide the best in both quality ingredients and formulation, the chemists at Koster Keunen recently conducted studies, culminating in our white paper: Advanced Crystallization Control in Personal Care Formulations: The Role of Plasticizers in Enhancing Stability and Texture.
Examining Formulation Needs with Benefits for Formulation Efficacy
Within a typical personal care formulation, one consistently finds high-molecular-weight waxes, needed for film formation or as thickeners, alongside inorganic pigments and fillers, volatile and non-volatile oils, fragrances, actives, and more. Add to that the sometimes conflicting physical properties of these ingredients, and it is clear that something must enter the fray to allow all of them to work together. That “something” is a plasticizer.
Plasticizers are needed to interact directly with wax molecules or to enhance another plasticizer’s effectiveness. Plasticizers, embedded in the wax matrix between the molecules, can enhance the performance and stability of natural plant waxes. Kester Wax K-70P showed marked results in controlling crystallization, resulting in a more flexible and pliant wax matrix with a uniform distribution of smaller crystals. The materials showed reduced brittleness yet maintained necessary protective and moisturizing properties.
Introduction of a plascticizer, resulting in a uniform structure at the molecular level, translating into the formation of a continuous, defect-free lipid film upon application. Skin was provided with a coherent and impermeable layer that preserved moisture over extended periods. A bonus feature of the Kester Wax K-70P molecule is its propensity for attracting water molecules, even under low humidity conditions. So, formulations showed humectant properties, attracting and retaining water molecules in the upper layers of the stratum corneum.
Benefits for the Users’ Experience
Controlling the crystallization and the structure of a gel matrix provides a host of improvements to the texture, the slip, the feel of every gel, lotion, balm, or butter that your customers use. And the crucial feel of luxury that provides your brand with its appeal day after day, comes from getting that texture right. The plasticizer that suppresses crystallization and reduces viscosity facilitates mixing, pumping, and filling for your manufacturing, but the user experiences it as even and easy flow from that container. Plasticizing to reduce yield stress? Your valued customer has a sensory impression of low resistance in emulsions and balms, with an elegant feel, pleasant cushion, and comfortable, non-dragging application. And the coup de grace? Using a plasticizer to decrease viscosity and surface tension promotes better emollient penetration into the stratum corneum, enhancing the sense of skin’s smoothness and flexibility.
Smooth and Easy: Example Formulations
This month, we bring you a balm for the lips and a balm for all over. These featured formulations showcase the consistency, the emollience, the even deposition of actives in stable, smooth squeezables.
Squeezable Lip Balm
Formula #: 5/23-858/154-4
Getting consistency just right is crucial when formulating, especially with natural squeezable products which are notoriously difficult to create. We created a natural squeezable balm without the use of beeswax or butters. Our Squeezable Lip Balm is an example formula that offers a window into the benefits of choosing just the right plasticizer. Kester Wax K-70P imparts improved feel and spreadability, in a natural, vegan formulation.
| Ingredient Trade Name | INCI Name | % |
| Phase A | ||
| Sunflower Wax | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax | 5.0 |
| Kester Wax 70P | C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate | 5.0 |
| Coconut Oil | Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil | 30.0 |
| Jojoba Oil | Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil | 30.0 |
| Jeechem CTG | Tocopheryl Acetate | 30.0 |
All Over Body Balm
Formula #: 11/16-286/258/484-5
In our All Over Body Balm, a versatile moisturizer example formula, the field is open for choosing the chassis that best suits your product range. A team of plasticizers offers you a choice to transform this all-in-one balm into twist-up sticks, push-up sticks, pots, or molds. This natural/clean formulation features nourishing Cocoa Butter, the structuring properties of Sunflower Wax, and the lovely, cool slip of Kester Wax K-24. In this sample formula, Kester Wax K-70P contributes to a creamy texture and thermal stability.
| Ingredient Trade Name | INCI Name | % |
| Phase A | ||
| AR Cocoa Butter | Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Butter | 12.0 |
| Sunflower Wax | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax | 7.5 |
| Kester Wax K-60P | Polyhydroxystearic Acid | 15.0 |
| Kester Wax K-24 | Lauryl Laurate | 8.0 |
| Coconut Oil | Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil | 34.0 |
| Jojoba Oil | Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil | 13.5 |
| Rice Bran Oil | Oryza Sativa (Rice Bran) Oil | 9.0 |
| Vitamin E Acetate | Tocopheryl Acetate | 0.8 |
| Natural Fragrance | Parfum | 0.2 |
Kester Wax K-70P, in both rheological and morphological tests, showed the ability to change the properties of wax systems in ways that enhanced outcomes for both manufacturing and user experience. Please read the whole white paper on our website, and contact us if you have any questions, or if you would like to discuss ways in which Kester Wax K-70P, or one of our other plasticizers, could be effective in your personal care systems.
About Koster Keunen
Koster Keunen has been working with wax since 1852 and has used our extensive experience and knowledge base to continuously develop new chemistries. Whether you are developing a new product, or need help with a reformulation or replacement, contact us to learn more about how we source, refine or develop waxes so you can create the perfect formula.




