The Era of the Functional Format Is Now

No doubt, the biggest thing happening in skincare is the rise of stick and balm products. The population of cosmetics users is evolving and growing, with a desire for products that offer maximum convenience and ease of use. Few formats are as convenient and multifunctional as the stick. Koster Keunen knows how to formulate the whole range, from a soft, high pay-off stick to a firm chassis that produces maximum stability in all temperatures. Our example formulations showcase how the perfect blend of waxes and esters can create textures that push the boundaries of what stick formulas have achieved in the past.

Even better, we’ve got you covered with the ultimate perk: clean and safe ingredients.  Consumers are using their dollars on products that recognize their environmental impact and shape the future worldwide. Working with Koster Keunen products gives brands the option of sourcing sustainable, eco-friendly, clean, and safe ingredients. For example, the Beeswax that gives your anhydrous formulations structure and plasticity is sustainably sourced. And that’s no greenwash: our white and yellow sustainable Beeswaxes are traceable back to the hive and certified according to a 3rd party NGO.

A Stick with Water & Wax?!?!

Sunflower Wax is a powerhouse structurant in the wax world. Its gelling properties are apparent from simple stick formulas to structured water-in-oil emulsions. Our study of how sunflower wax works appears in the Spring 2023 issue of Personal Care Today. Sunflower wax performs in typical anhydrous formulations, but as our Let’s Hydrate! Natural Lotion Stick formula shows, its structuring capabilities remain sound even in a stick emulsion! The addition of Kester Wax K-24 imparts the luxe texture to glide on with a cool, non-greasy feel.

Let’s Hydrate! Natural Lotion Stick

Formula #: 11/22-258/358-6

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Sunflower Wax Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax 17.0
Kester Wax K-24 Lauryl Laurate 12.5
Cetiol CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 12.5
Isolan GPS Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate 3.0
Zinc Stearate Zinc Stearate 0.5
Phase B
Deionized Water Aqua 47.5
Niacinamide PC Niacinamide 2.0
Optiphen Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol 1.0
Glycerin Glycerin 3.0
Magnesium Sulfate Magnesium Sulfate 1.0

Oh So Soft & Stable Balms

Our Fortifying Eye Balm example formula uses 100% natural ingredients, like White Beeswax, to softly structure this perfect anhydrous balm providing great pickup and a smooth spreadability . This formula elevates the art of hydrating your skin with a clean, safe, and natural ingredient list. What could be better than a soothing balm that moisturizes and comforts us with ingredients we can feel great about? This eye balm stays in place to give some love to hardworking peepers. The Bayberry Wax lends its buttery emollience, while imparting its soothing natural fragrance.

Fortifying Eye Balm

Formula #: 1/23-188/421-9

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
White Beeswax Beeswax 10.0
Bayberry Wax Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Wax 5.0
Coconut Oil Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 38.0
Olive Oil Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil 38.0
Olive Squalane Squalane 8.0
Evening Primrose Oil Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil 3.0
Vitamin E Acetate Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0
Agenaflo 9050 Corn Starch Modified 5.0

Going Places? Pack the Wax that Works!

Generations of cosmetics users may have used waxes for various purposes, but a whole new era of innovation is upon us. Every day we are expanding our understanding of how our ingredients perform in formulations, and we put that to use to make your brands better. When you are looking for the formulation innovation to level up your brand’s range, contact us.

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About Koster Keunen

Koster Keunen has been working with wax since 1852 and has used our extensive experience and knowledge base to continuously develop new chemistries. Whether you are developing a new product, or need help with a reformulation or replacement, contact us to learn more about how we source, refine or develop waxes so you can create the perfect formula.