• Effective conditioner, detangler, frizz reduction
  • Traditional ingredients, proven results
  • Simple chassis, easy to modify


  • Kostol IBT: Cationic o/w emulsifier. Provides excellent conditioning, detangling and frizz reduction in all hair care formulations. Promotes a powdery after-feel in skin care. Usage level 0.5-8%.
  • Kester Wax K-48: Naturally derived wax ester of plant origin. Provides opacity and texture to emulsions, with minimal impact on viscosity. Secondary structurant in anhydrous formulations. Usage level 1-20%.
  • Cocoa Butter: Natural wax extracted from Cocoa beans. Low melt point solid, provides thickening, some structure, and nourishment to skin and hair. Emollient, thickener, glossy finish. Usage level up to 100%.


Main Topic

  • Hair Care

Sub Topics

  • Emulsion
  • Hair Care
  • Hair Conditioner
  • Unisex
  • Vegan


  • Begin heating water to 80°C and add Phase A ingredients one by one, mixing each until uniform.
  • Combine Phase B ingredients, and heat to 80 – 85°C until melted.
  • Add Phase B to Phase A under agitation and mix at high speed until emulsion is uniform.
  • Check pH and adjust to 4-5 as necessary.
  • Cool to 45°C or under and pour into containers.

Stability Information

Three months at 45°C, three months at room temperature, three freeze/thaw cycles.

Supplier Information

  1. .Koster Keunen, Inc.
  2. Brenntag Specialties
  3. Lubrizol

Ingredient Trade Name



Phase A
Deionized Water Aqua 74.35
Disodium EDTA Disodium EDTA 0.05
Optiphen2 Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol 1.0
Glycerin Glycerin 5.0
Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.6
Phase B
Kostol IBT1 Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate 6.0
Kester Wax K-481 Cetyl Palmitate 3.0
AR Cocoa Butter1 Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter 4.0
Schercodine S3 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine 2.0
Belsil DM 1002 Dimethicone 4.0