The Modern Creation of Texture

The
MODERN CREATION
OF TEXTURE

The
MODERN CREATION
OF TEXTURE

Download Brochure THE ART OF BUILDING MODERN COLOR COSMETICS THROUGH STRUCTURE AND SENSORY DESIGN THE ART OF BUILDING MODERN COLOR COSMETICS THROUGH STRUCTURE AND SENSORY DESIGN

By Jessica Dynda

The Consumer Shift Toward Texture-Led Beauty

Color cosmetic innovation has shifted far beyond shade expansion and long-wear claims. While they remain essential, today’s consumers expect products that deliver a sensory experience that enhances daily beauty routines. Across color cosmetics, a tactile and sensorial quality has become a key differentiator and an increasingly important driver of product perception.

Consumers expect products that deliver color and wear, while also gliding effortlessly and being comfortable on the skin. As innovation shifts, formulators are challenged to balance pigment, performance, comfort, flexibility and texture in equal measure. Nearly every emerging trend points toward products that are softer, more tactile, more comforting, more intuitive to apply, and increasingly texture-driven. Rather than relying solely on bold pigment or dramatic transformation, brands are creating emotional connections through texture, tactility, softness, and comfort.

Market Trends for The Future

The following lasting market shifts are influencing the way formulators approach texture and sensory design in color cosmetics.

Texture Has Become as Important as Color

Consumers are increasingly drawn to products that deliver a distinct sensory experience through application and wear. Modern launches emphasize textures that melt, glide, cushion, blur, bounce, and adapt to the skin. Innovation is no longer driven solely by shade expansion, long-wear claims, or color payoff. Texture itself has become a source of differentiation. For formulators, texture is no longer a supporting characteristic. It is often the product experience itself.

This shift is driving the growth of texture-led product formats, where the physical experience plays an equally important role as color performance. Flowable anhydrous gels, soft anhydrous creams, hybrid balm systems, structured sticks, butter textures, and serum-gel hybrids are redefining consumer expectations across color cosmetics. Creating these next-generation formats requires a careful balance of structure, flexibility, sensory attributes, and stability, transforming texture design into a critical element of product development and brand differentiation.

Skin Health as the New Color Standard

The lines between skincare and color cosmetics continue to blur. Consumers increasingly expect makeup products to deliver comfort, flexibility, hydration, and skin-friendly performance alongside color benefits. Rather than masking the skin, many modern products are designed to enhance it. This trend places increasing emphasis on texture systems that feel breathable, flexible, offer blemish conscious and comfortable throughout wear

Modern consumers want products that meet them where they are.

The SPF & Color Meet-Cute

Color cosmetics and sun protection are having a moment. What was once a formulation afterthought is now a full-blown romance, with consumers searching for protective benefits alongside cosmetic performance. Successful protective color cosmetics must balance structure, stability, lightweight wear, and sensory elegance, proving that protection and prettiness can absolutely coexist.

From a […]

The Development of Skincare

The
DEVELOPMENT
OF SKINCARE

The
DEVELOPMENT
OF SKINCARE

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MARKET INSIGHTS & TREND-DRIVEN
FORMULAS FOR THE FUTURE

MARKET INSIGHTS & TREND-DRIVEN FORMULAS FOR THE FUTURE

The future of skincare is not reactive; just like skin, it is resilient

As consumers move away from overcomplicated routines and algorithm-driven claims, formulation is returning to its physical foundation: structure, barrier integrity, and sensory intelligence.

Resilient skin begins with intelligent formulation architecture.

Koster Keunen’s expertise in wax engineering, lipid structuring, and multifunctional material design supports the development of high-performance systems that deliver:

Long-term moisturization

Barrier reinforcement

Climate-stable formats Sensory refinement

No matter if the system is an emulsion, balm or stick, material science becomes the silent force behind elevated skincare performance.

Market Evolution: From Correction to Resilience

The skincare market is shifting from aggressive correction toward long-term resilience. Consumers are increasingly aware of inflammation, environmental stress, over-exfoliation, and barrier compromise. Rather than pursuing rapid transformation, they are seeking recovery-focused systems that reinforce the skin’s structural integrity over time. This shift places renewed emphasis on skin lipid support, balance, and sustained moisturization without over processing the skin.

Barrier-supportive systems such as anhydrous recovery balms and structured emulsions are gaining relevance because they deliver measurable comfort, skin barrier support and lasting hydration. Multifunctional materials that create breathable films, reinforce the lipid matrix, and maintain elegant sensory profiles are now included into all future formulations going to market.

Texture as Performance

Sensory expectations have elevated significantly. Today’s consumer equates texture with efficacy. A formula’s melt profile, cushion, slip, and absorption speed are interpreted as proof of performance. Rich no longer means greasy; protective no longer means heavy. The demand is for controlled payoff, refined glide, and non-whitening protection—even in traditionally dense formats such as sticks and balms.

Wax technologies, solid esters and modern plasticizers are enabling this new generation of textures. By fine-tuning crystallinity, melt curves, and film formation, formulators can design anhydrous sticks that glide effortlessly, emulsions that feel substantial yet absorb cleanly, and serum systems that layer seamlessly within routines. Sensory engineering has become inseparable from functional delivery.

Craftsmanship in Formulation

Amid rapid technological advancement, there is a renewed appreciation for formulation craftsmanship. Rather than chasing algorithm-driven novelty, brands are investing in material intelligence—understanding how ingredients work together to create durable performance and refined aesthetics.

In this environment, engineered lipid systems and wax-based architectures are not background components; they are the foundation of resilient, elegant skincare. Regardless of the system format, material science is shaping the next generation of barrier-centric beauty

Recovery Balm

Recovery Balm is a pharma-inspired, anhydrous barrier system designed to reinforce compromised skin with lasting hydration. Formulated without petrochemicals and avoiding BHT and PAHs, it delivers elegant occlusion through engineered wax architecture rather than heavy mineral films. Creamy yet structured, this high-performance balm soothes dry, cracked, and rough skin while maintaining refined glide and long-wear comfort.

Recovery Cream

Recovery […]

Wax Excipients For Tablets

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About Koster Keunen

For over 170 years, Koster Keunen has been a global leader in wax manufacturing and innovation. Founded in 1852, Koster Keunen has pioneered advancements in wax technology, earning a reputation for unmatched quality, consistency, and technical expertise.

With multiple manufacturing facilities worldwide and the unique capability to support internal Disaster Recovery Planning (DRP), Koster Keunen remains the trusted partner for pharmaceutical applications, delivering solutions that meet the most stringent industry standards. All products are manufactured under GMP guidelines and produced in an SQF-certified facility.

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To request a wax sample please click HERE.

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To obtain further details on this program, use information in your marketing story, or ask other questions, email us HERE.

The Role of Wax Excipients in Tablet Formulation

Wax excipients are essential ingredients in modern tablet manufacturing. They serve multiple critical functions across the formulation: acting as binders and release-rate modulators within the tablet matrix, providing protective coatings, improving mechanical strength, and ensuring consistent drug delivery over time.

Key functions of wax excipients in tablets include:

Controlled & Sustained Release: Wax matrices slow the diffusion of active ingredients, enabling extended therapeutic windows and improved patient compliance.

Encapsulation: Surrounds the active ingredient to protect it from the gastrointestinal environment until the desired release point.

Functional Form: Granulated wax forms are required for tablet applications, delivering consistent processing performance and reliable release results.

Higher Active Ingredient Efficiency: Wax excipients enable significantly higher active ingredient concentration with less filler, maximizing potency per tablet.

Melt Granulation: Improves flowability, compressibility, and stability of the formulation during processing.

Overcome Compression Challenges: Wax excipients support binding of difficult-to-compress actives, improving tablet integrity without negatively impacting dissolution.

Precision Dissolution Control: Wax excipients direct active ingredient release to the optimal point during ingestion, controlling where and when the active works.

Protective Coating & Polishing: Creates moisture-resistant barriers, improves swallowability, and delivers a professional tablet finish.

Reduce Tablet Size: Higher active loading enabled by wax excipients results in a significantly smaller tablet delivering the same therapeutic dose.

Tablet Binding: Wax enhances cohesion and mechanical strength, reducing chipping and friability throughout the tablet’s shelf life.

Regulatory Compliance & Quality

All Koster Keunen wax excipients for tablet applications are manufactured to the highest pharmaceutical standards:

Manufactured under current Good Manufacturing Practice (cGMP) guidelines

SQF-Certified Facility

Compliant with National Formulary (NF) monograph specifications

Kosher Certified

Halal Certified

Regulatory documentation available upon request

Independent third-party testing available on applicable products, including pesticides, heavy metals, microbiological, residual solvents, hydroxyl value, and fatty acid composition

Research Study: Wax-Encapsulated Folic Acid Dissolution

In a dissolution study conducted by CellMark Ingredients in May 2026, Koster Keunen wax excipients demonstrated powerful controlled-release performance in folic acid tablet formulations. The study was performed using Gouming RC-1 apparatus in synthetic stomach fluid (0.1N HCl at 37°C), with UHPLC analysis to track active ingredient release over 6 hours.

Study Design**

Five tablet formulations were evaluated, each containing 75% Folic Acid, with the […]

What Is Bayberry Wax?

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WHAT IS BAYBERRY WAX?

Bayberry Wax is an ethically sourced vegetable wax obtained from the fruit of native Myrica species grown in Colombia. It is traditionally valued for its protective and conditioning properties. Its distinctive sensory profile makes it a multifunctional structuring and emollient for next-generation cosmetic formulations.

KEY FEATURES & BENEFITS

The Best Buttery Texture

Creates butter texture emulsions and creams

Smooth glide, elegant texture and skin feel

Improves sensory richness without heavy drag

Medium melting point for elegant sensory profiles (40-55 °C)

Supports clean beauty positioning

Thickening & Structure

Ideal for balms, sticks, emulsions, and pomades

Provides structure and texture in anhydrous systems

Excellent compatibility in emulsified systems

Functional in soap and surfactant-adjacent systems

Offers solid format innovation

Request A Sample

To request a wax sample please click HERE.

Request Information

To obtain further details on this program, use information in your marketing story, or ask other questions, email us HERE.

APPLICATIONS & FORMULATION BENEFITS

FORMULATION GUIDELINES

Anhydrous: Enhances structure with improved skin fee

Emulsions: Contributes body and consistency

Creates breathable occlusive film

FORMULATION GUIDELINES

Flexible structuring in pomades and styling systems

Neutralizes shine and aids in formulating natural matte style systems

Supports viscosity building and cushion

REGULATORY

Improves stick integrity and glide

Supports payoff consistency

Compatible with pigments, powders and dispersions

Biodiversity-Driven Innovation

Bayberry Wax is sourced from a plant native to Colombia, unlocking the country’s extraordinary biodiversity potential. Traditional knowledge is combined with modern scientific innovation to create a material that performs in cosmetic systems while supporting environmental restoration. There is active work toward UEBT certification, reinforcing responsible sourcing and biodiversity conservation standards.

The fruit is harvested by Colombian farming communities, with a focus on:

Fair trade income generation

Replacing illicit agricultural activities

Forest preservation and environmental restoration

Supporting long-term socio-economic development

Sustainable wild harvesting and emerging plantation management

Alignment with Nagoya Protocol principles

Protects native trees from deforestation pressures

Builds long-term traceable supply chains

Active Hydration Lotion

Formula: #1/26-414/188/10098-6

FEATURES

Pumpable, moisturizing everyday lotion

Stays put with a non- greasy feel

All-natural formula

Skin Care

Emulsion

Natural/Clean

Vegan

Ingredient Trade Name INCI Name %
Phase A
Deionized Water Aqua 70.0
Glycerin Glycerin 4.0
Siligel Xanthan Gum (and) Lecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Pullulan 0.4
Lincoserve WpH-LO […]

The Role of Plasticizers in Enhancing Stability and Texture

INTRODUCTION

Historical Context and the Birth of Modern Plasticization

Plasticizers in Personal Care Products: From 19th-Century Billiard Balls to Enhanced Tactile Performance and Skin Penetration

The concept of plasticization traces its origins to the 1860s, during a period of acute global ivory shortage caused by the booming popularity of billiards in Europe and North America. Traditional billiard balls were carved from elephant ivory, and besides its obvious and unnecessary brutality, supply could no longer meet demand. In 1863, the American inventor John Wesley Hyatt began experimenting with nitrocellulose, a rigid and brittle polymer. Pure nitrocellulose, however, was far too stiff and explosive for practical molding.

Hyatt’s breakthrough, patented in 1869–1870, was the addition of camphor as a plasticizer.[1] The resulting material, trademarked Celluloid, could be softened with heat and solvent, molded under pressure into perfect spheres, and cooled, and hardened into a tough, glossy product. Celluloid became the first commercially successful thermoplastic and ushered in the plastics/plasticizer era.

The principle discovered by Hyatt, that certain additives can dramatically enhance polymer chain mobility without chemically altering the base polymer, rapidly found applications far beyond billiards. By the early 20th century, a number of chemistries emerged for different matrices and applications, the most demonstrative among them being PVC where a rigid construction material (e.g. window frames) can be made into a soft and stretchy film (e.g. pool liners).  Eventually, these plasticizers made their way into personal care products.

Today: Basic Necessities in Skincare

Modern personal care products are expected to deliver exceptionally high sensory and performance standards: uniform texture, lasting physical stability, a non-tacky finish, and a luxurious, smooth, creamy skin feel that consumers immediately associate with premium quality. Achieving these characteristics is far from trivial when one considers the complex, multicomponent nature of typical formulations. These systems routinely combine high-molecular-weight waxes (film-formers, thickeners), inorganic pigments and fillers, volatile and non-volatile oils, surfactants, fragrances, preservatives, active ingredients, and water, each contributing with different and sometimes conflicting physical properties.

Without careful rheological and interfacial control, the final product can become (excessively) brittle, prone to phase separation, or exhibit cracking upon drying. Films may lack flexibility, resulting in flaking, or become uneven, emulsions may feel greasy or sticky. All or any of these defects can directly translate into reduced consumer acceptance.

In the specific realm of skincare, particularly moisturizing products, efficacy historically revolves around three well-established categories:

  1. Emollients: lipophilic substances that “repair” the skin surface by filling intercellular spaces and micro fissures in the stratum corneum, restoring smoothness and flexibility.[2]
  2. Occlusives: materials that form a continuous hydrophobic film on the skin surface, dramatically reducing trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), basically a physical barrier.[3]
  3. Humectants: molecules with some hygroscopicity, capable of binding water from the environment (or deeper skin layers, i.e. Epidermis/Dermis) and delivering it to the Stratum Corneum.[4]

For true emollient performance, the material must exhibit sufficiently low viscosity and favorable wetting properties to flow rapidly into microscopic skin crevices via capillary action. This process is governed by Young–Laplace capillary pressure, surface tension (interfacial) tension, contact angle, […]

Kester K-45

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Kester K-45

NATURAL LUXURY FROM JOJOBA

Kester K-45 is a soft, creamy paste of jojoba esters created by transesterification of jojoba oil and wax. This natural ester provides a smooth, luxurious feel while delivering emolliency, stability, and moisture retention. It is an excellent emollient making it ideal for a wide range of formulations. It offers non-greasy emolliency, oxidative stability, and a luxurious skin feel. It can be used in both wash off and leave on applications.

MULTIFUNCTIONAL BENEFITS

Moisturizes & Protects: Reduces dryness, roughness, and flakiness Strengthens Skin: Supports heathy skin barrier Luxurious Feel: Non-greasy, smooth sensory profile Color Cosmetic Performance: Enhances coverage, payout, and oxidative stability Hair Care: Reduces wet and dry comb friction, enhances shine

Request A Sample

To request a wax sample please click HERE.

Request Information

To obtain further details on this program, use information in your marketing story, or ask other questions, email us HERE.

APPLICATIONS Skin Care: Creams, lotions, serums, masks, balms Color Cosmetics: Lipsticks, foundations, primers Hair Care: Conditioners, treatments, styling products Sun & Baby Care: Sunscreens, after-sun, diaper creams FORMULATION GUIDELINES Use Level: 1–10% depending on system and desired effect Form: Soft white paste Melting Point: 42-48°C Processing: Add to the oil phase; process between 58- 85°C

AT A GLANCE

Skin Care Studies Coming

Sensorial Tests Moisture Barrier Skin Moisturization RIPT

Hair Care Studies Coming

Wet Combing Dry Coming Shine Sensorial Tests

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