Water in Oleogel Technology

What Is A Water-In-Oleogel Emulsion?

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A water-in-oleogel emulsion is a moderately complex system, with properties dictated by both water-in-oil emulsion theory, as well as oleogel theory.

Products

Sunflower Wax

Beeswax

Rice Bran Wax

Ozokerite

Synkos

Formulas

Formulas

What are the benefits of a water-in-oleogel emulsion in personal care?

  • Incorporation of both water and oil soluble actives.
  • Increased emulsion stability.
  • Flexibility: multiple levels of structure are possible.
  • Innovative, interesting textures.
  • Benefits of oil based formulas without the greasy feel.
  • Possible cooling effects on skin.
  • Sticks and other “on-the-go” formats.

What are the sensory benefits of a water-in-oleogel emulsion?

Because of this hybrid nature, w/og emulsions can offer both the positive sensory benefits of w/o emulsions as well as of anhydrous formulations. In a sensory panel, participants were presented with a trio of skin care formulations: a standard w/o emulsion, a structured w/o emulsion and an anhydrous balm, all based on the same formula backbone. Panelists were asked to rate and describe the sensory properties.

The sensory panel results show an overwhelming preference towards the structured w/o format, as well as a wider range of sensory/texture descriptors when compared to the corresponding w/o emulsion and anhydrous balm.

Overall format performance

initial observations and hypothesis

The addition of waxes in increasing levels to the oil phase of w/o emulsions (external phase) show very different results than those observed when adding waxes to the oil phase of o/w emulsions (internal phase). Those results are consistent with our observations when working with oleogels. Our theory is that if there is a direct correlation between the structural properties of w/og systems and their og counterparts, all tools and techniques chemists use when working with anhydrous systems can be applied to working with structures w/o systems.

objectives

  1. Create oleogel (og) charts showcasing the structuring properties of different waxes in different oil mediums.
  2. Create water-in-oleogel (w/og) charts: Replicate #1, but with 50% water phase dispersed internally using an appropriate w/o emulsifier.
  3. Compare charts from #1 and #2 and determine any relationships. If they exist, test our theory on complex formulas and provide formulators with the tools and guidance to create their own systems.

oleogels theory and gel charts

Oleogels (og) are viscoelastic materials comprising a nonpolar liquid phase (the oil) and a gelator or mix of gelators, very typically waxes. Waxes immobilize the lipid phase through the formation of three-dimensional networks, resulting in systems of varying consistencies and firmnesses, largely dependent on the amount of wax used.

This oleogel firmness or strength can be measured with a penetrometer and recorded on a gel chart, a tool that can organize gel strength data in a meaningful way and save a lot of trial-and-error time. Gel charts published here were built by plotting penetration distance on the y-axis vs. % wax on the x-axis for each individual gel following the simple formula:

[…]

Kostol NatureMuls

INCI: Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearyl Lactylate

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APPLICATIONS

Kostol NatureMuls is a versatile emulsifier that can be used in natural and conventional formulations. For use in all personal care products for leave-on or wash-off applications including the following:

SKIN CARE

  • Emulsions
  • Lotions
  • Creams
  • Sun Care
  • Baby Care
  • Mousse
  • Eye Products
  • Masks
  • Serums
  • Shave Preparations

HAIR CARE

  • Treatments
  • Conditioning

COLOR COSMETICS

  • Emulsions
  • Foundations
  • Mascara

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To request a wax sample please click HERE.

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To obtain further details on this program, use information in your marketing story, or ask other questions, email us HERE.

CLEAN BEAUTY

Kostol NatureMuls meets the ISO 16128 definition of natural ingredient, and its natural origin index is 0.5<X<1. It is also and approved for use with leading clean beauty brands including but not limited to: Clean at Sephora, Credo Beauty and Whole Foods Premium Body Care.

Key Features & Benefits

  • PEG-Free & Natural
  • All-in-One Emulsification System
  • Primary Emulsifier
  • Emulsion Break: Medium to long
  • Oil-in-water
  • Self-emulsifying

PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS

INCI: Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearyl Lactylate

Typical Usage Levels: 2-8%
HLB Value: 6-8
pH range: 5-12
Form: Pastilles
Package: 25kg Boxes

SKIN CARE

  • Emulsions
  • Lotions
  • Creams
  • Sun Care
  • Baby Care
  • Mousse
  • Eye Products
  • Masks
  • Serums
  • Shave Preparations

HAIR CARE

  • Treatments
  • Conditioning

COLOR COSMETICS

  • Emulsions
  • Foundations
  • Mascara

Formulation Guidelines

  • Easy to use. Combine emulsifier with the oil phase and heat until phase is melted and homogeneous. Add to hot water phase and mix with conventional mixer (propeller or paddle) at high speed until emulsion is formed. Cool with medium speed until pour temp (40°C or lower).
  • Lab results show homogenization does not negatively affect the emulsifier and can be used as needed for complex and stabilizers.
  • Need to increase the oil to emulsifier ration beyond 3:1? This is attainable by using additional support thickeners and stabilizers.

Natural Emulsification

Formulating natural emulsions are no longer cost prohibitive or difficult with Kostol NatureMuls. This peg-free emulsifier was created by Koster Keunen scientist and starts with plant-based waxes and lipids. It has the ability to support the entire system as the only emulsifier you require, or choose to use it as the primary emulsifier or co-emulsifier for specific textures and bounce.

“This emulsifier checks all the boxes for my job. It is me preferred emulsifier when formulating natural because it is so dependable. I find all levels of Kostol NatureMuls provides a fantastic feel and different percentages contributes to the sensorial attributes of the emulsion.”

Chemist with 15 years personal care experience.

DEEP RICH TEXTURE

Specifically developed to deliver lavish lotions, these comforting, richly textured emulsions wrap skin in softness to restore skin’s natural radiance and beauty. Create a rich, velvety and nourishing product coupled with formulators choice of actives to deliver the perfect beauty cream with the specifics desired. Emulsions made with NatureMuls will have a medium to long break with velvety cushion. Looking to produce a high-end lotion or serum? Require a pourable or pumpable finished product? […]

SynKos ”O” Wax Series

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The SynKos ”O” Wax Series is comprised of white, synthetic waxes with unique gelling and texturing capabilities. SynKos waxes are synthetic hydrocarbon polymers manufactured by GTL (gas-to-liquid) technology from natural gas. They can function like petroleum-based hydrocarbons, while being more consistent and offering a lower cost.

Formulation Guidelines

SynKos Waxes are used as gelling agents, thickeners, viscosity modifiers, and barriers. They are also used to modify hardness, slip and melting point. These products have compatibility with all cosmetic systems, including the following: vegetable oils, esters, and low viscosity fluids like cyclomethicone and isododecane. Look for our gel data on the following cosmetic fluids to get the gel that is best for each system.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Caprylic Capric Triglycerides
Castor Oil
Cyclopentasiloxane
Isododecane
Isononyl Isononanoate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Mineral Oil
Sunflower Oil

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Regulatory

SynKos Waxes offer the formulator another choice of chemistry and INCI designation from both petrochemical waxes and polyethylene.

INCI Name: Synthetic Wax
Manufactured: Watertown, Connecticut, USA
Does Not Contain: BHT, Heavy Metals, or PAH’s.

SynKos is REACH polymer exempt, not restricted by COLIPA requirements and not a mineral hydrocarbon.

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To request a wax sample please click HERE.

Request Information

To obtain further details on this program, use information in your marketing story, or ask other questions, email us HERE.

SynKos O-1070

Wax No. 10089

Benefit Overview

  • Structurant
  • Designed to replace Ozokerites
  • NO BHT, NO PAH’s

Gel Strength & Congeal Points

Gel data is provided to show the strength of the gel formed and measured via 1/4 cone penetration. The lower the cone penetration, the harder the gel structure is. For example, a stick formula could have a penetration reading of 20-50 dmm, while a balm or pot balm would register around 70-140 dmm. Congeal information is used to understand how the gel solidifies. By combining the gel data with congeal temperature data, formulators can better predict and understand the type of gel and texture they can expect on the bench.

Comparing Gel Strengths

Use these charts to understand the basic gel strength of SynKos O 1070 and how it compares to Ozokerite.

Formulas Bee Invisible Concealer Refreshing Sunscreen Stick Classic Lipstick – Tigerlily Revive Daily Face Moisturizer Essential Freshness DEO Stick

Kostol TMC-25

Kostol TMC-25 is a plant based, cationic oil-in-water emulsifier designed for both hair and skin care formulation. Developing emulsions with cationic systems offers better adhesion to hair and skin.

Kester Wax

Kester Wax Explained

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Ester chemistry used in personal care and cosmetics can range from oils to waxy solids depending on their molecular weight. The differences in composition will affect the product form, its properties, and its behavior in finished formulas.

Each of Koster Keunen’s Kester Waxes are created for different performances in finished products.

FORMULATION GUIDELINES
Each Kester Wax follow the same basic guidelines. Melt into oil phase. Best practices for working with wax chemistries is to melt 5-10 degrees over melt point.

CLEAN BEAUTY
Approved for use* with leading brands including but not limited to: Clean at Sephora, Credo Beauty and Whole Foods Premium Body Care.

 

* at the time of print

Products

Wax esters allow specific characteristics of a formula to be designed. They are advanced tools for the chemist to shape distinct features.

Kester Wax K-24

Kester Wax K-48

Kester Wax K-56

Kester Wax K-59

Kester Wax K-60P

Kester Wax K-62

Kester Wax K-72

Formulas

Example formulas showcasing each of the Kester Wax products listed.

Formulas

Kester Wax K-24

Wax No. 6358B

A non-traditional wax ester, Kester Wax K-24 is a solid at room temperature with performances comparable to a liquid ester in formulations. This product will not structure systems. Kester K-24 is highly compatible in all systems, similar to most cosmetic oils and liquid esters.

Solid to Liquid in a Blink

Kester Wax K-24 has a fast phase change allowing this ester to transition from solid to liquid instantly. The chemistry lends an initial cooling effect in some emulsion formulas, and provides that “instant slip” in formulation provided by the low melt point (25°C).

Applications

Highly versatile ester wax that can be used in all applications including Skin Care, Hair Care, Color Cosmetics, Sunscreens, AP/DEO, Wash-off or Leave-on products. Acceptable for natural, clean beauty and vegan formulas.

 

SKIN CARE HAIR CARE COLOR COSMETICS
  • Emulsions & Lotions
  • Baby Care
  • Face Care
  • Lip Care
  • AP/DEO
  • Sticks & Balms
  • Ointments
  • Massage Oils
  • Sunscreens
  • Conditioners
  • Shampoos
  • Styling
  • Pomades
  • Clays
  • Anhydrous
  • Masks
  • Chemical Treaments
  • Lipsticks
  • Pencils
  • Anhydrous
  • Foundations
  • Pressed Powders
  • Lip Balm
  • Make-up Remover

FEATURES AND BENEFITS
  • Ester
  • Emollient
  • Melting Texture
  • Silicone Alternative
  • Dry Powdery Feel
  • Cooling Effect
  • Reduces Greasiness

CLEAN BEAUTY

  • Natural – Plant Based
  • RSPO
  • Clean Beauty Approved

PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS

  • INCI: Lauryl Laurate
  • Typical Usage: 1-50%
  • Form: Paste
  • Package: 20kg Pail

Kester Wax K-48

Wax No. 6120P

A non-traditional wax ester, Kester Wax K-48 is a natural, plant-based ester that provides opacity, emolliency and body in both Leave-on and Wash-off formulas. This product will not […]

Kostol Natural E

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Elevating Natural Emulsions

Manufactured by Koster Keunen USA, this plant-based emulsifier embodies our commitment to quality and innovation. It combines the power of nature with advanced formulation expertise, ensuring that you can create outstanding skincare products that align with the preferences of today’s conscious consumers.

Kostol Natural E is a natural, PEG-Free, oil-in-water emulsifier. It performs in all formulation types creating thin to medium viscosity emulsions with a fresh, quick emulsion break.

Chemists can dial in the skin feel and texture while elevating their systems away from standard cetyl/stearyl chemistry.

Request A Sample

To request a wax sample please click HERE.

Request Information

To obtain further details on this program, use information in your marketing story, or ask other questions, email us HERE.

View Our Formulas

Product Characteristics

INCI Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate
Usage Level 2-7%
pH Range 5-12
HLB Value 5-7
Form Pastilles (P)
Package 25kg Boxes
Manufactured Watertown, CT USA

Applications

Kostol Natural E is a natural, oil-in-water emulsifier designed for both leave-on and wash-off products. This is a versatile ingredient delivering fresh feeling, bright white emulsions. It will support wash-off balms and natural deodorant sticks. Use for creams, lotions, balms, hair pomades, surfactant systems, sticks, natural deodorants, and emulsions in color cosmetics.

Skin Care

  • All Emulsions:
    Lotions & Creams
  • Sun Care
  • Baby Care
  • Serums
  • Spray Emulsions
  • Deodorants & Sticks
  • Cleansing Balms
  • Creamy Surfactant Systems

Hair Care

  • Emulsions
  • Treatments
  • Conditioning
  • Styling

Color Cosmetics

  • Emulsions
  • Foundations
  • Mascara

Key Features & Benefits

  • Primary or Secondary Emulsifier
  • Break: Clean, Fresh “Wet” Break
  • Emulsifier-Oil Ratio: 1:3
    -(Flexible, formula-dependent; higher ratios possible)
  • Nonionic
  • Oil-in-Water
  • Low Soaping Potential
  • Supports Anhydrous Systems

Emulsification

Thin to Medium Viscosity: Kostol Natural E offers a versatile viscosity range, allowing you to achieve the desired texture for your leave-on and wash-off products. Its quick emulsion break on the skin leaves a refreshing sensation, allowing for easy absorption of beneficial components. Whether you prefer a lightweight lotion, a sprayable formula or a slightly thicker cream, this emulsifier provides flexibility in formulating products that suit your specific requirements.

Emulsion Flexibility: The emulsifier excels in creating stable oil-in-water emulsions for […]

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