Brochures Archive - Koster Keunen

Kostol NatureMuls

INCI: Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearyl Lactylate

APPLICATIONS

Kostol NatureMuls is a versatile emulsifier that can be used in natural and conventional formulations. For use in all personal care products for leave-on or wash-off applications including the following:

SKIN CARE

Emulsions
Lotions
Creams
Sun Care
Baby Care
Mousse
Eye Products
Masks
Serums
Shave Preparations

HAIR CARE

Treatments
Conditioning

COLOR COSMETICS

Emulsions
Foundations
Mascara

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CLEAN BEAUTY

Kostol NatureMuls meets the ISO 16128 definition of natural ingredient and its natural origin index is 1. It is also RSPO mass balanced and approved for use* with leading clean beauty brands including but not limited t: Clean at Sephora, Credo Beauty and Whole Foods Premium Body Care.

Key Features & Benefits

PEG-Free & Natural
All-in-One Emulsification System
Primary Emulsifier
Emulsion Break: Medium to long
Oil-in-water
Self-emulsifying

PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS

INCI: Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearyl Lactylate

Typical Usage Levels: 2-8%
HLB Value: 6-8
pH range: 5-12
Form: Pastilles
Package: 25kg Boxes

SKIN CARE

Emulsions
Lotions
Creams
Sun Care
Baby Care
Mousse
Eye Products
Masks
Serums
Shave Preparations

HAIR CARE

Treatments
Conditioning

COLOR COSMETICS

Emulsions
Foundations
Mascara

Formulation Guidelines

Easy to use. Combine emulsifier with the oil phase and heat until phase is melted and homogeneous. Add to hot water phase and mix with conventional mixer (propeller or paddle) at high speed until emulsion is formed. Cool with medium speed until pour temp (40°C or lower).
Lab results show homogenization does not negatively affect the emulsifier and can be used as needed for complex and stabilizers.
Need to increase the oil to emulsifier ration beyond 3:1? This is attainable by using additional support thickeners and stabilizers.

Natural Emulsification

Formulating natural emulsions are no longer cost prohibitive or difficult with Kostol NatureMuls. This peg-free emulsifier was created by Koster Keunen scientist and starts with plant-based waxes and lipids. It has the ability to support the entire system as the only emulsifier you require, or choose to use it as the primary emulsifier or co-emulsifier for specific textures and bounce.

“This emulsifier checks all the boxes for my job. It is me preferred emulsifier when formulating natural because it is so dependable. I find all levels of Kostol NatureMuls provides a fantastic feel and different percentages contributes to the sensorial attributes of the emulsion.”

Chemist with 15 years personal care experience.

DEEP RICH TEXTURE

Specifically developed to deliver lavish lotions, these comforting, richly textured emulsions wrap skin in softness to restore skin’s natural radiance and beauty. Create a rich, velvety and nourishing product coupled with formulators choice of actives to deliver the perfect beauty cream with the specifics desired. Emulsions made with NatureMuls will have a medium to long break with velvety cushion. Looking to produce a high-end lotion or serum? Require a pourable or […]

Kostol TMC-25

Kostol TMC-25 is a plant based, cationic oil-in-water emulsifier designed for both hair and skin care formulation. Developing emulsions with cationic systems offers better adhesion to hair and skin.

Kester Wax

Kester Wax Explained

Download Kester Wax Brochure

Ester chemistry used in personal care and cosmetics can range from oils to waxy solids depending on their molecular weight. The differences in composition will affect the product form, its properties, and its behavior in finished formulas.

Each of Koster Keunen’s Kester Waxes are created for different performances in finished products.

FORMULATION GUIDELINES
Each Kester Wax follow the same basic guidelines. Melt into oil phase. Best practices for working with wax chemistries is to melt 5-10 degrees over melt point.

CLEAN BEAUTY
Approved for use* with leading brands including but not limited to: Clean at Sephora, Credo Beauty and Whole Foods Premium Body Care.

* at the time of print

Products

Wax esters allow specific characteristics of a formula to be designed. They are advanced tools for the chemist to shape distinct features.

Formulas

Example formulas showcasing each of the Kester Wax products listed.

Formulas

Kester Wax K-24

Wax No. 6358B

A non-traditional wax ester, Kester Wax K-24 is a solid at room temperature with performances comparable to a liquid ester in formulations. This product will not structure systems. Kester K-24 is highly compatible in all systems, similar to most cosmetic oils and liquid esters.

Solid to Liquid in a Blink

Kester Wax K-24 has a fast phase change allowing this ester to transition from solid to liquid instantly. The chemistry lends an initial cooling effect in some emulsion formulas, and provides that “instant slip” in formulation provided by the low melt point (25°C).

Applications

Highly versatile ester wax that can be used in all applications including Skin Care, Hair Care, Color Cosmetics, Sunscreens, AP/DEO, Wash-off or Leave-on products. Acceptable for natural, clean beauty and vegan formulas.

SKIN CARE	HAIR CARE	COLOR COSMETICS
Emulsions & Lotions Baby Care Face Care Lip Care AP/DEO Sticks & Balms Ointments Massage Oils Sunscreens	Conditioners Shampoos Styling Pomades Clays Anhydrous Masks Chemical Treaments	Lipsticks Pencils Anhydrous Foundations Pressed Powders Lip Balm Make-up Remover

FEATURES AND BENEFITS

Ester
Emollient
Melting Texture
Silicone Alternative
Dry Powdery Feel
Cooling Effect
Reduces Greasiness

CLEAN BEAUTY

Natural – Plant Based
RSPO
Clean Beauty Approved

PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS

INCI: Lauryl Laurate
Typical Usage: 1-50%
Form: Paste
Package: 20kg Pail

Kester Wax K-48

Wax No. 6120P

A non-traditional wax ester, Kester Wax K-48 is a natural, plant-based ester that provides opacity, emolliency and body in both Leave-on and Wash-off formulas. This product will not […]

Going Vegan: Replacing Beeswax

In personal care, beeswax is used for oil gelling capabilities, structuring, thickening, film forming and can aid in emulsification.

The Koster Keunen Sustainability Program

Koster Keunen is committed to an overall responsible sourcing program focusing on pure beeswax, economic development and beekeeper safety and longevity.

SynKos Wax Series

The SynKos Wax Series is comprised of white, synthetic waxes with unique gelling and texturing capabilities. SynKos waxes are synthetic hydrocarbon polymers manufactured by GTL (gas-to-liquid) technology from natural gas.

Kester Wax CT: Replacing Lanolin Wax

Lanolin wax is the semisolid fraction from whole lanolin. It is used as a hair or skin-conditioning agent, viscosity modifier and binder. Most personal care products with lanolin wax fall into the “Hair Styling” category.

Orange Wax

The protective layer of the fruit, the peel, provides a barrier and stops the orange from drying out. The botanical lipids within the peel are also beneficial to our skin, acting as emollients to shield, moisturize and lubricate the skin.

The Functional Advantages of Natural Waxes in Traditional Soaps

Alexandra G. McMahon, B.S., Research & Development Chemist, Koster Kuenen, Inc.
Belen M. Lemieux, M.S., Research & Development Laboratory Manager, Koster Keunen, Inc., lemieux@kosterkeunen.com

Download Our Brochure

Abstract

Humans have been manufacturing soap since at least 2800 B.C., modifying and perfecting their recipes over the centuries. Today’s traditional soap bars are made via saponification of triglycerides: the alkaline hydrolysis of fatty ester bonds, leading to mainly C16-C18 fatty acid soaps and glycerol. In this paper, we explore the use of Natural Waxes from Koster Keunen, Inc. as starting raw materials in soap formulations, both alone and as additives to traditional triglycerides. Twelve Natural Waxes were blended with olive oil at 50/50 ratios, each blend was fully saponified, and the reaction products were evaluated for different properties and compared to a standard olive oil soap bar. It was determined through experimentation that each Saponified Natural Wax or Saponified Natural Wax Blend made a chemically complex finished soap, with different properties from the control and from each other. Some of the benefits encountered included improved bar hardness, a longer lifespan, more hydrophobicity, and innovative INCI declarations.

Introduction and Background

Few personal care products can have their history traced as far back as soap. While the historical accounts on soap and soapmaking are rife with legend, experts agree that the earliest evidence dates back to 2800 BC in Ancient Babylon, when a soap-like substance was discovered during an archaeological dig¹.

Other records show ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans also made and used soap for thousands of years, perfecting the technique over time. By 1100 AD, soap making was an established practice in Mediterranean countries with easy access to olive oil, a key ingredient in Castille Soap, which was widely traded at the time².

Soap was introduced to the Americas in the 17^th century, when soap makers arrived in Jamestown, VA¹. Over the next 200 years, as the United States industrialized, soapmaking evolved into one of the fastest growing businesses, with P&G’s Ivory being one of the first to gain national distribution³. However, food and fat shortages during World War I led German engineers to introduce synthetic replacements for soap, now known as detergents⁴. American consumers quickly embraced detergents due to their efficiency, availability, and low price; moving traditional soaps over time to niche market segments, particularly “Indie” brands, artisanal soap makers, and crafters⁵.

In recent years, and specifically at the onset of the COVID-19 Pandemic, the demand for hand soap has escalated. In fact, the global hand soap market is forecasted to grow by 6.7% from 2020 to 2030, with the household segment accounting for over 70% of the market share⁶. Although it is not clear what percentage of said growth refers to traditional soap bars (versus “syndet” bars or liquid detergents), current consumer trends, such as natural ingredient demand, small business support, and plastic reduction seem to support the persistence of traditional soaps^{7, 8}.

Soap Chemistry and The Role […]

Sunflower Wax: Formulating for Structure and Gels

Sunflower wax provides structure to many anhydrous systems, regardless of oil medium or presence of pigments/powders. Even at low percentages, it can improve high temperature stability, preserve stick integrity, and offset a tacky feel.