At the 2024 New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists Suppliers’ Day, Koster Keunen had the pleasure and good fortune to present a fantastic array of products to meet a wide variety of needs, from niche applications to a new product that can be a workhorse for your staple ranges.
When Innovation Meets Practicality, Formulation is a Breeze
The skin care and hair care industries enjoy constant change, which creates an intense environment of opportunity. One example is our SynKos “O” Wax Series, which offers a replacement for petroleum-based waxes at a price point that merits a second look. This multi-purpose wax series headlined its newest member, SynKos O-1070, a widely compatible structurant that embraces cost-effectiveness while maintaining your brand’s signature quality.
But how to know which wax is right for your formulation? Don’t miss the latest issue of The Buzz, where you’ll find an article by our VP of Research and Development to explain the important concept of wax crystallinity. Understanding the factors that affect waxes in formulation gives you a set of keys to both initial formulation, and substitutions within your existing systems.
Patience is a Virtue
Missed us at the NYCSCC? Among a festival lineup of products and formulations, we presented innovations in color cosmetics, skin care, and hair care. Check out a few of our featured example formulas that showcase a new wax, a new approach to water-in-oil formulation, and innovative uses for our signature natural waxes.
The biggest news this year is our much-anticipated rollout of SynKos O-1070, the latest member of the SynKos Series. In the Essential Freshness DEO Stick example formula, SynKos O-1070 acts as an economical, non-BHT structurant, increasing the melt point without compromising comfortable payout. Because the SynKos waxes exhibit high compatibility, systems retain the best features of Cocoa Butter and Kester Wax K-60P.
Essential Freshness Deo Stick
Formula #: 2/24-10089/286/484-3
Ingredient Trade Name | INCI Name | % |
Phase A | ||
Synkos O-1070 | Synthetic Wax | 8.0 |
Cocoa Butter | Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Butter | 8.0 |
Kester Wax K-60P | Polyhydroxystearic Acid | 13.0 |
Extra Virgin Coconut Oil | Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil | 22.0 |
Jeechem CTG | Caprylyc/Capric Triglyceride | 16.0 |
Magnesium Hydroxide | Magnesium Hydroxide | 20.0 |
SMA Arrowroot Powder | Maranta Arundinacea Root Powder | 12.0 |
Vitamin E Acetate | Tocopheryl Acetate | 1.0 |
Color cosmetics are uniquely demanding to formulate. They require stability while offering comfortable payout and feel, they must carry a wide variety of color ingredients and actives. And on top of all of that, the variety of chassis options are vast. Our chemists are dedicated to helping you create the systems that support your brand, and to that end, we offer an example formula that presents our research on creating water-in-oleogel emulsions, a process that results in positive sensory benefits from product appearance and pickup to pleasant afterfeel. Our Multi-use Color Stick sample formula demonstrates these qualities.
Multi-use Color Stick
Formula #: 9/23-451/358/883-3
Ingredient Trade Name | INCI Name | % |
Phase A | ||
Ozokerite 175 | Ozokerite | 4.2 |
Synkos 2060 | Synthetic Wax | 7.0 |
Kester Wax K-24 | Lauryl Laurate | 4.2 |
Dow ES 5300 | Lauryl PEG-10 Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl Dimethicone | 3.0 |
BELSIL DM 1 Plus | Dimethicone | 19.5 |
Olive Squalane | Squalane | 7.1 |
Zinc Stearate USP | Zinc Stearate | 0.5 |
Unipure White LC-987 AS-EM | CI 77891 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane | 3.19 |
Unipure Red LC-381 AS-EM | CI 77491 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane | 0.06 |
Unipure Yellow LC-182 AS-EM | CI 77492 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane | 0.45 |
Unipure Triple Black LC990 AS-EM | CI 77499 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane | 0.04 |
Phase B | ||
Deionized Water | Aqua | 45.76 |
Glycerin | Glycerin | 3.0 |
Optiphen | Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol | 1.0 |
Magnesium Sulfate | Magnesium Sulfate | 1.0 |
Koster Keunen is known as the go-to source for natural and naturally-derived waxes. Even as we expand our offerings, we stand strong on the foundation we are built on, with our commitment to sustainability and doing what’s right for the world and its people. The rise of new trends provides opportunities for innovation, while remaining true to our roots. The Beard Smoothing Bar, a versatile and vegan formula, flexes the amazing capacity of natural Sunflower Wax to add structure and stability to stick and bar formulations.
Beard Smoothing Bar
Formula #: 1/22-10013/258/358-5
Ingredient Trade Name | INCI Name | % |
Phase A | ||
Kostol TMC-251 | Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Chloride | 3.0 |
Sunflower Wax1 | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax | 17.0 |
Kester Wax K-60P1 | Polyhydroxystearic Acid | 4.0 |
Kester Wax K-241 | Lauryl Laurate | 25.0 |
Lipocol O-952 | Oleyl Alcohol | 21.0 |
Lipovol Crambe2 | Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil | 15.0 |
Castor Oil3 | Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil | 11.2 |
Virgin Argan Oil3 | Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil | 3.0 |
Vitamin E Acetate4 | Tocopherol Acetate | 0.8 |
Do these examples remind you of a thorny formulation challenge you need to solve? We’re here for you. If you are looking to make changes to systems that are in need of a textural refresh, don’t miss our handy guidelines for making changes to a water-in-oil emulsion. If you are ready to tap into our expertise fully, contact us to start a conversation.
About Koster Keunen
Koster Keunen has been working with wax since 1852 and has used our extensive experience and knowledge base to continuously develop new chemistries. Whether you are developing a new product, or need help with a reformulation or replacement, contact us to learn more about how we source, refine or develop waxes so you can create the perfect formula.