Features

  • Create a fresh faced look in minimal time with this ultra-creamy, buildable color for eyes, cheeks and lips.

Ingredients

  • Kester Wax CT: Vegan wax blend designed to mimic the properties of lanolin wax. Thickener, film former, texturizer, thickener, emollient. Usage level 0.5-20%.
  • Kostol PGP: Non-ionic o/w emulsifier. Provides a quick break and light feel, without affecting viscosity. Designed for multiple formula types, wide pH tolerance. Usuage level 2-6%.
  • PEG-8 Beeswax: Beeswax derivative that increases compatibiltiy with polar materials. Promotes creamy textures and spreadability in anhydrous systems. Co-emulsifier, stabilizer in emulsions. Usage level 1-10%.
  • Kester Wax K-82P: Ensures even film forming and improves adhesion to the skin.

Categories

Main Topic

  • Color Cosmetics

Sub Topics

  • Emulsion
  • Lip Product

Procedure

  • Combine Phase A ingredients one at a time, mixing well after each addition, while heating the batch to 80-85°C.
  • Combine Phase B materials in a separate vessel, heat to 80-85°C, and mix until uniform.
  • Add Phase B to Phase A and mix at high speed and 80-85°C until emulsion is smooth.
  • Start cooling and add Sumicos Artic Flare, Prestige Ruby 351594, Mirage Glamour Silver and Optiphen, cool to 45°C or cooler.
  • Premix last two materials, add slowly and mix until uniform.

Stability

Three months at room temperature, three months at 45°C, three freeze/thaw cycles.

Suppliers

  1. Koster Keunen, Inc.
  2. Brenntag Specialties
  3. Rita
  4. Sensient
  5. Eckhart
  6. Jeen

Ingredient Trade Name

INCI Name

%
Phase A
Deionized Water Aqua 44.5
Glycerin Glycerin 3.0
980 Carbomer2 Carbomer 0.05
Tealan 993 Triethanolamine 0.55
Phase B
Kester Wax CT1 C32-36 Isoalkyl Stearate, Polyhydroxystearic acid, Stearyl Behenate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polysorbate 60 10.0
Kostol PGP1 Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and) Beheneth-5 2.0
Peg-8 Beeswax1 Peg-8 Beeswax 4.0
Kester Wax K-82P1 C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate 0.5
Stearic Acid1 Stearic Acid 2.0
Castor Oil Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil 6.0
Unipure Pink LC-5894 Ultramarines CI 77007 2.4
Unipure Red LC3814 Iron Oxides CI 77491 0.2
Mica Sericite BC 2852 Mica 1.0
Phase C
Sumicos Artic Flare2 Synthetic Fluorophlogopite, Titanium Dioxide 2.0
Prestige Ruby 354692 Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Carmine 1.0
Mirage Glamour Silver5 Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Tin Oxide 2.0
Optiphen2 Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol 0.8
Belsil TMS 8032 Trimethylsiloxysilicate 3.0
Jeesilc CPS-2116 Cyclopentasiloxane 15.0