Features

  • Soft, creamy formula.
  • Easy pick up.
  • Light to medium styling.

Ingredients

  • Kester Wax BK-40: Unique branched wax ester. Brittle solid with a low melt point, can replace natural butters in emulsions, providing film forming, thickening and emolliency, without risk of oxidation.
  • Kester Wax K-62: Naturally derived wax ester of plant origin. High melt point solid wax, provides hard structure in anhydrous applications. Structurant. Usage level 1-20%.
  • Kostol ApiFree: Natural, vegan blend designed to mimic the properties of PEG-8 Beeswax. Adds slip in anhydrous formulations. Improves stability in emulsions. Usage level 1-10%.

Categories

Main Topic

  • Hair Care

Sub Topics

  • Hair Styling
  • Unisex
  • Vegan

Procedure

  • Begin heating water to 80°C. Add Phase A ingredients one by one, mixing each until uniform.
  • Combine Phase B ingredients, and heat to 80–85°C until melted.
  • Add Phase B to Phase A under agitation. Mix at high speed until emulsion is uniform.
  • Final pH should be 6-7 (adjust with TEA if necessary).
  • Pour into containers at 60–65°C.

Stability

One month at room temperature, one month at 45°C, three freeze/thaw cycles.

Suppliers

  1. Koster Keunen, Inc.
  2. Lubrizol
  3. Rita
  4. Brenntag Specialties

Ingredient Trade Name

INCI Name

%
Phase A
Deionized Water Aqua 55.15
Disodium EDTA Disodium EDTA 0.05
Pemulen TR-12 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.1
Tealan 993 Triethanolamine 0.2
Optiphen4 Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol 1.0
Glycerin Glycerin 3.0
PVP K-904 PVP 4.5
Phase B
Branched Kester Wax BK-401 C32-36 Isoalkyl Stearate 18.0
Kester Wax K-621 Stearyl Behenate 4.0
Kostol Apifree1 Behenyl Behenate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate 8.0
Permulgin D1 Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20 6.0